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THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZE\E

May. 1899, TO October, 1899

THE

WIDE WORLD

*n

MAGAZINE

AN ILLUSTRATED
MONTHLY
OF
TRUE NARRATIVE:
ADVENTURE	"TRITII IS
TRAVEL
CUSTOMS	STRANGER
AND
SPORT	THAN
■ •	FICTION"
Vol. III.
MAY
TO
OCIOBKR,	LONDON:
1S99	GEORGE NEIVNES, LTD
	SOUTHAMPTON ST. STRAND

fiOS21 3

i.<^. 5-6"

lilUl.l. uu JULU UUCUKS KOSt Ul' HEtURE THE FIRE."

(bEE I'AGE 8.)

The Wide World Magazine.

Vol. in.

MAY. 1899.

No. 13.

The Adventures of Louis De Rougemont.

As Told by IX.

Himself.

THE W.OK WOKLO is a Magazine -rted with the^owed inte.

and avoiding fiction. "The Adventures of ^0"'^ De Kov^emont ^ '^'^^ ^^^^^ ,^ ^^^ ,,i,^ ,^ have been thirty years the true account of the life of the author. It now turns -^"^ t^at u '\^^^V ^,^^^j ^^ ,,i^,^ ^i„^^ he

Long the savages, as stated. His story was ^f /L uSnthed v^e wishU to be distinctly understood that we do not never contradicted himself once But ^f^^^^^^^l^^^^'^' ^'■^"'f /^ ^C'^ leaving it to the members of the public to

publish it as a true narrative but only as X\f^;^^°^^l ^^J^l^^Z^ ^^^ are founded on his experiences,

believe as much or as little as they please. It is ^,^™;^^^^/^J' P™ details, that it marks its author, if not a speaker In any case, the story is so crowded with ^-^Y^;^' f^f^^^^^^/.^J f o\" langiage since Defoe ; so that, even if the story of the truth, at least as a master of fiction who has had "« equ^l ^^ "^[e rest and we are sure that our readers would be is an invention, it is one which cannot fai to e^,<=^^^^,f^^..f^PJJ\^"'%he extraordinary' developments and termination keenly disappointed ^ ^^ ^1^^;^^^^:^^^^ lines of the Pvorl,:-

" Truth is stranger than Fiction, But De Rougemont is stranger than both.

FTER the funeral— and funerals are dealt with more fully in my anthropo- logical notes— his wife followed out the usual custom of covering herself with pipeclay for about one month. She also mourned and howled for the pre- scribed three days, and gashed her head with bones and stones. Gibson's body was not buried in the earth, but embalmed with clay and leaves, and laid on a rock-shelf in a cave.

The general belief was that Gibson had merely gone back to the Spirit Land from whence he had come, and that as he was a great and good man, he would return to earth in the form of a bird- perhaps an ibis. I must say I never attached very much importance to what he said, however, even in his sane moments, because he was obviously a man ot low intelligence and no culture. If I remember rightly, he told me that the expedition to which he was attached left Adelaide with the object of goin^ overland to Freemantle. It was thoroughly well equipped, and for a long time everything went well with the party. One day, whilst some of them were off exploring on their own account, he lost himself.

He rather thought that the sun must Lost in have affected his brain even then,

the Desert. ^^^^^^^ ^^ ^.^^^,^ ^^^ ^^ ^^^^ j^j^ ^^^^_

panions that night, but went to sleep quite contentedly under a tree. He realized the horror of his position keenly enough the next morning, however, and rode mile after mile without halting and without stopping for tood or water, in the hope of quickly regaining his friends at the chief camp. Night stole down upon him once more, and he was still a lonely

wanderer, half delirious with thirst, the supply he had carried with him having long since

given out. ir u^

Next morning, when he roused himself, he found that his horse had wandered away and aot lost. After this he had only a vague recol- fection of what happened. Prompted by some strange, unaccountable impulse, he set out on a hopeless search for water, and went walking on and on until all recollection faded away, and he remembered no more. How long he had been lost when I found him he could not say, because he knew absolutely nothing whatever about his rescue. So far as I remember, he was a typical specimen of the Australian pioneer-a man of fine physique, with a full beard and a frank, but unintelligent, coun- tenance. He was perhaps 5ft. 4in. in height and about thirty years of age. \N hen I told h,m the story of my adventures he was full of earnest sympathy for me, and told me that .if ever I intended leaving those regions for civilization a-ain, my best plan would be to steer more S.h., as it was in this direction that Adelaide lay.

He also informed me that the great

Gibson's trans-Continental telegraph wire was

Advice, bein-' constructed from north to south.

This'' he advised me to strike and

follow to civilization. .

I may be permitted a little digression here to give a few extracts from Ciiles's book ''Australia Twice Traversed" (Sampson Low and Company), for this contains the version of the leader of the expedition himself as to the circumstances under which Gibson was lost. In all, it seems Giles made five exploring expeditions into and through Central South Australia and Western Australia

Vol. iii.— 1.

Copyright, X899. in the United States, by Louis de Rougemont.

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

MK. ERNEST r.M.ES, I.EAIJKK OF TIIK KXPEDITIOV.

from a I'hoto.

from 1872 to 1876. Speaking of his second

expedition, Mr. (iiles says: "I had informed

my friend, Baron \ox\ Mueller, by wire from

the Charlottf Waters Telegraph station of the

failure and break-up of mv first expedition, and

he set to work and

obtained new funds

for me to continue

my labours. 1 reached

Adelaide late in

January, 1873, and

got my party to

gether. We left

early in March of

1873, and journeyed

leisurely upcountr\

to Heltana, then past

the Finriis Springs to

the (Ircgory. U e

then journeyed up to

the Peake, where we

were welcomed by

Messrs. Hagot at the

Cattle Station, and

Mr. Hlood of the

'I'elegraph Department. Here we fixed

up all our packs, sold Bagot the waggon,

and bought horses and other things.

We now had twenty pack-horses and

four riding horses."

We now come to the introduction of (libson.

'■ Here a short young man '^o"""" accosted me, and asked me if

I didn't remember him. He said he was ' Alf.' I thought I knew his face, but I \hought it was at the Peake that I had seen nim ; but he said, ' Oh, no I Don't you remem ber Alf, with Bagot's sheep at the north- west bend of the Murray? My name's Alf Cibson, and I want to go out with you.' I said, 'Well, can you shoe? Can you ride? ('an you .starve ? Can you go with- out water ? And how would you like to be sjK-ared by the blacks ? ' He said he could do everything I had mentioned, and he wasn't afraid of the blacks. He was not a man I would have picked out of a mob, but men were .scarce, and. he seemed so anxious to come, so I agreed to take him.

" Thus, the expedition consisted of four persons -^ myself (Ernest Giles), Mr. William Henry 'I'ietkins, Alf Gibson, and James Andrews, with twenty-four horses and two little dogs. On Monday, 4th August, we finally left the encampment."

Now here is the passage in which Mr. (iiles describes his dramatic parting with Gibson. It will be found in the chapter

marked, '•20th April to 21st May, 1874." " Gibson and I departed for the west. I rode the 'Fair Maid of Perth.' I gave Gibson the big ambling horse, ' Badger,' and we packed the big cob with a pair of water-bags that contained twenty gallons. As we rode away, I was telling Gibson about various exploring expeditions and their fate, and he said, ' How is it that, in all these exploring expeditions, a lot of people go and die? ' He said, ' I shouldn't like to die in this part of the country, anyhow.'

'• \\'e presently had a meal of smoked horse. It was late when we encamped, and the horses were much in want of water, especially the big cob, who kept coming up to the camp all night and tried to get at our water- bags. We had one small water-bag hung in a tree.

"I didn't think of that until my mare came straight up to it and took it in her teeth, forcing out the cork, and sending the water up, which we were both dying to drink, in a beau- tiful jet. Gibson was now very sorry he had exchanged ' Badger' for the cob, as he found the cob very dull and heavy to get along. There had been a hot wind from the north all day, and the following morning, the 23rd

A Fountain in the Desert.

MR. WILLIAM

HENRV TIETKINS,

SECOND IN

COMMAND.

From a Photo.

^'J'-

,4'«'-

THE MARE TOOK IT IN HER TEETH, AND SENT THE WATER Ul' l\ A JET."

THE ADVENTURES OF LOUIS DE ROUGEMONT,

of April, there was a most strange dampness in the air, and I had a vague feeling, such as must have been felt by augurs and seers of old, who trembled as they told events to come ; for this ivas the hxst day on which I ever saw Gibson.

" As Gibson came along after me, he called out that his horse was going to die. The hills to the west were twenty-five to thirty miles away, and I had to give up trying to reach them. How I longed for a camel I (Gibson's horse was now so bad as to place both of us in a great dilemma. We turned back in our tracks, when the cob refused to carry his rider any farther, and tried to lie down. We drove him another mile on foot, and down he fell to die. My mare, the ' Fair Maid of Perth,' was only too

Giles

Regains

His Camp.

glared at the dead.

willing to

return, but she had now to carry

Gibson's saddle and things, and away we went, walking and riding in turns of one half-hour each.

" ^^'hen we got back to about thirty miles from a place which I had named ' The Kegs,' I shouted to (ribson, who was riding, to stop until I walked up to him. By this tinie we had hardly a pint of water left between us.

We here finished the supply, and I

((

* "^Fi"'"^ then said, as I could not speak before, ' Look here, Gibson,

here, Ciibson, you see we are in a most terrible fix, with only one horse : so, only one can ride, and one must remain behind. I shall remain, and now listen to me. If the mare does not get water soon she will die ; therefore, ride right on ; get to the Kegs, if possible, to-night, and give her water. Now that the cob is dead, there'll be all the more water for her. Early to-morrow you will sight the Rawlinson, at twenty-five miles from the Kegs. Stick to the tracks and never leave them. Leave as much water in one keg for me as you can afford, after watering the mare and filling up your own bags, and, remember, I depend upon you to bring me relief.'

"Gibson said if he had a compass he thought he could go better by night. I knew he didn't understand anything about compasses at all, as I had often tried to explain them to him. The one I had was a Gregory's Patent, of a totally different construction from ordinary instruments of the kind, and I was loth to part with it, as it was the only one I had. However, as he was

so anxious for it, I gave it to him, and away he went. I sent one final shout after him to stick to the tracks, and he .said, ' All right ! ' and the mare carried him out of sight almost instantly.

" All the food I had was eleven sticks of dirty, sandy, smoked horse, averaging about an ounce and a half each.

"On the I St of May, as I afterwards found out, at one o'clock in the morn- ing, I staggered into the camp, and awoke Mr. Tietkins at daylight. He me as if I had been one risen from I asked him if he had seen Gibson. It was eight days since I last saw him. The next thing was to find Gibson's remains. It was the 6th of May when we got back to where Gibson had left the right line. As long as he had remained on the other horses' tracks it was practicable enough to follow his track, but the wretched man had left them and gone away in a far more southerly direction, having the most difficult sand-hills to cross at right angles. We found he had burnt a patch of spinifex where he had l-^ft the other horses' tracks.

" Whether he had made any mistake in steer- ing by the compass or not it is impossible to say ; but instead of going east, as he should have done, he actually went south, or very near it.

" I was sorry to think that the unfortunate man's last sensible moments must have been embittered by the thought that, as he had lost himself in the capacity of messenger for my

THE LAST MK. Oil.ES EVER SAW OF GIBSON.

Frotn " Australia Twice Traversed." By kind permission of Messrs. Sampson Lo^u 6^ Co.

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

rclid, 1, too, must necessarily fall a victim to liis mishap.

" I called this terrible region, lying between the Rawlinson Range and the next permanent water that may eventually be found to the north, ' Clibson's Desert,' after this first white \ ictim to its horrors.

" In looking over Ciibson's few effects,

EffSct..' •'^''■- Tit-tkins and I found an old jxjcket-book, a drinking song, and a certificate of his marriage. He had never told us he was married."

And now to resume my own narrative. Now that (libson was dead I decided to move my home farther north, and eventually I .etlled down with my family (two children, a boy and a girl, had been born to me during my residence on the shores of the lagoon) in a beautiful mountainous and tropical region 200 or 300 miles to the north. It was my intention 'tily to have made a temporary stay here, but '■•!.' r ties came, and my little ones were by no iih .ms strong enough to undertake any such formidable journey as I had in contemplation. I also made the fatal mistake of trying to bring thtni uj) differently from the other savage ( liiliireii.

I5ut I have to relate here an incident that hap|)ened on our journey north. Yamba came to me one day positively (juivering with excitement and terror, and said she had found some strange tracks, apparently of some enormous IxMst a monster so fearful as to be quite [)' yond her knowledge.

She took me to the spot and pointed " tVIcLT?* out the mysterious tracks, which I saw at •nee were those of camels. I do not know why I decided to follow them, because they must have been some months old. Probably, I reflected, I might be nl)le to pick up something on the tracks which would be of use to me. At any rate, we did follow the tracks for several weeks -perhaps a month— and found on the way many old meat - tins, which afterwards < .mie in useful as water vessels. ( )ne day, however, I pounced upon an illustrated newspaper — a copy of the Sydney T(ru<n and Country Journal^ bearing .some date, I think in 1875 or iS-/6. It was a complete copy with the outer cover. I re- member it contained some pictures of horse - racing — I

I SHOWED THE PICTURES TO MV CHILDREN,

believe at Parramatta ; but perhaps the " Long Lost Relative " column interested me most, for the very moment I found the paper I sat down in the bush and began to read it with great eagerness, and as Yamba was also toler- ably familiar with the language, I read aloud to her. I cannot say she altogether understood what she heard, but she saw that I was intensely interested and delighted, and so she was quite content to stay there and listen. You will observe that in all cases the very fact that / was pleased was enough for Yamba, who never once wavered i^: her fidelity and affection. Altogether we spent some weeks following up these tracks, but, of course, we never came up with the caravan of camels, which must have been some months ahead of us. Yamba at length appeared to be a good deal wearied at my persistency in following up the tracks in this way, but after all was it not merely killing time? — a mild sort of sensation which served to break the eternal monotony that sometimes threatened to crush me.

How I treasured that soiled copy of ■possession*! the TozvH and Country, as it is familiarly called in Sydney ! I read and re-read it, and then read it all over again until I think I could have repeated every line of it by heart, even to the advertisements. Among the latter, by the way, was one inserted apparently by an anxious mother seeking in- formation concerning a long-lost son ; and this pathetic paragraph set me wondering about my own mother. "Well," I thought, "she at least has no need to advertise, and I have the satisfaction of knowing that she must by this time be quite re- conciled to my loss, and have given me up as dead long ago." Strangely enough, this thought cjuite reconciled me to my exile. In fact, I thanked Providence that my disappearance had been so complete and so prolonged as to leave not the slightest cause for hope on the part of any of my relatives. Had I for a moment imagined that my mother was still cherishing hopes of seeing me again some day, and that she was under- going agonies of mental sus- pense and worry on my behalf, I think I would have left every- thing and risked everything to reach her. But I knew quite well that she must have heard of the loss of the Veiel/and, and that she had long ago resigned

THE ADVENTURES OF LOUIS DE ROUGEMOXT.

7

herself to the certainty of my death. I can never hope to describe the curious delight with whii h I perused my precious newspaper. I showed the pictures in it to my children and my natives, and they were more than delighted, especially with the pictures of the horses in the races at Parramatta. In the course of time the sheets of paper began to get torn, and then I made a pretty durable cover out of kangaroo hide. Thus the whole of my library consisted of my Anglo-French Testament and the copy of the Tcnvn and Country Journal.

But I have purposely kept until the end the most important thing in connection with this strangely-found periodical. The very first eager and feverish reading gave me an extraordinary shock, which actually threatened my reason ! In a prominent place in the journal I came across the following passage : " The Deputies of Alsace and Lorraine have refused to vote in the German Reichstag."

Now, naturally knowing nothing whatever of the sanguinary war of 1870, or of the altera- tions in the map of Europe which it entailed, this passage filled me with startled amazement. I read it over and over again, getting more bewildered each time. "The Deputies of Alsace and Lorraine have refused to vote in the German Reichstag ! " " But — good heavens ! " I almost screamed to myself, " zvhat were the Alsace and Lorraine Depu- ties doing in the German Parliament at all ? " I turned the matter over and over in my mind, and at last, finding that I was getting worked up into a state of dangerous excite- ment, I threw the paper from me and walked away. I thought over the matter again, and so utterly incomprehensible did it appear to me that I thought I must be mis- taken — that my eyes must have deceived me. Accordingly I ran back and picked the paper up a second time, and there, sure enough, was the same passage. In vain did I seek for any sane explanation, and at last I somehow got it into my head that the appearance of the printed characters must be due to a kind of mental obliquity and that I myself must be rapidly going mad I Even Yamba could not sympathize with me, because the matter was one which I never could have made her understand. I tried to put this strange puzzle out of my head, but again and again the accursed and torturing passage would ring in my ears until I nearly went crazy.

It is not an exaggeration to describe pa^ldfs" "ly mountair. home in the centre of the continent as a perfect paradise. The grasses and ferns grew 10 a prodigious height, and there were magnificent forests of while gum and eucalyptus. Down in the valley I built a spacious house — the largest the natives had ever seen. It was perhaps 20ft. long, 1 6ft. to 18ft. wide, and about I oft. high. The interior was decorated with ferns, war implements, the skins of various animals, and last — but by no means least — the " sword " of the great sawfish I had killed in the haunted lagoon. This house contained no fireplace, because all the cooking w-as done in the open air. The walls of the hut were built of rough logs, the crevices being filled in with earth taken from ant-hills. I have just said / built the house. This is, perhaps, not strictly correct. It was Yamba and the other women-folk who actually carried out the work, under my supervision. Here it is necessary to explain that I did not dare even to cut down a tree, because such a proceeding would have been considered undignified on my part. I really did not want the house ; but, strangely enough, I felt much more comfortable when it was built and furnished, because, after all, it was a source of infinite satisfaction to me to

Ivfe'

I THREW THE PAPER KRO.M ME.

feel that I had a home I could call my own. Gradually, then, I settled down and was made absolute chief over a tribe of perhaps five hundred souls. Besides this, my fame spread abroad into the surrounding country, and at

THK WIDE WORLD MACiAZINE.

every new moop ^ held a sort of informal reception, which v^is attended by deputations of tribesmen from hundreds of miles aroiuid. My own tribe already possessed a chieftain of their own, but my position was one pf greater influ- ence even than his ; and I was appointed to it without having to undergo the painful and degrading ceremonies that initiation entails. My immunity in this respect was, of course, owing t(j my supposed great powers. I was always present at tribal and war council-s, and also liad some authority over other tribes.

I adopted every device I could think ^,™p\ of to make my dwelling home-like, Failure, ^-jj^ J gyg„ joumeyed many miles in a

N.N.E. direction, to procure cuttings (jf grape vines, but I must say that this at any rate was labour in vain, because I never improved upon the quality of the wild grapes, which had a sharp, acid flavour that affected the throat somewhat unpleasantly until one got used to them.

And we had pets ; coISatoo!' ' remember I once

caught a live cocka- too, and trained him to help me in my hunting expeditions. ! taught him a few English |)hrases, such as "Good morn- ing," and " How are you ? " and he would perch himself on a tree and attract great numbers of his kind around him by his incessant chatter- ing. I would then knock over as many as I wanted by means of my bow and arrows. At this time, indeed, I had quite a menagerie of animals, in- cluding a tame kangaroo. Naturally enough, I had ample leisure to study the ethnology of my people. I soon made "itaucui m the discovery that my blacks were intensely spiritualistic, and that once a year they held a festival which, when described, will, I am afraid, tax the credulity of my readers. The festival I refer to was held " when the sun was born again," i.e., about New Year's Day. On these occasions the adult warriors from far and near assembled at a certain spot, and after a rourse of festivities, they sat down to an extia- ordinary siancc conducted by women —very old, wizened witches— who apparently possessed occult powers, and were held in great venera- tion. These witches are usually maintained at the expense of the tribe. The office of witch.

however, does not necessarily descend from mother to daughter, it being only women credited with supernatural powers who can claim the position.

After the great corroboree the people would squat on the ground, the old men and warriors being in front, the women behind, and the children behind them ; the whole congregation being arranged in the form of a crescent, in the centre of which a large fire would be set burning. Some of the warriors would then start chanting, and their monotonous sing-song would presently be taken up by the rest of the gathering, to the accompaniment of nmch swaying of heads and beating of hands and thighs. The young warriors then went out into the open and commenced to dance.

I may as well de- o?dTnary' scribc in detail the Festival, j^^st of thcsc extra- Ordinary festivals which I witnessed. The men chanted and danced them- selves into a perfect frenzy, which was still further in- creased by the appearance of three or four witches who suddenly rose up before the fire. They were very old and haggard - looking creatures, with skins like shrivelled parchment ; they had scanty, dishevelled hair, and piercing, beady eyes. They were not ornamented in any way, and they seemed more like skele- tons from a tomb than human beings. After they had gyrated wildly round the fire for a short time, the chant sud- denly ceased, and the witches fell prostrate upon the ground, calling out as they did so the names of some departed chiefs. A deathly silence then fell on the assembled gathering, and all eyes were turned to the wreaths of smoke that were ascending towards the evening sky. The witches presently renewed their plaintive cries and exhortations, and at length I was amazed to see strange shadowy forms shaping themselves in the smoke. At first they were not very distinct, but gradually they assumed the form of human beings, and then the blacks readily recognised them as one or other of their long- departed chiefs ■ — estimable men always and great fighters.

Now the first two or three times I saw this

A I i;\V ENGLISH PHRASES.

I'HE ADVENTURES OF LOUIS DE ROUGEMONT.

weird and fantastic ceremony, I

thought

the

in too great a state of terror to have availed

f

apparitions were the result of mere trickery.

But when I saw them year after '"^f''the°'"^year for almost a generation, T came ••Ghosts." jQ [[.|g conclusion that they must be

placed in the category of those things which are beyond the ken of our philosophy. I might .say that no one was allowed to approach sufficiently close to touch the "ghosts," if such they can be termed; and probably even if permission had been granted, the blacks would be themselves of it

Each of these seances lasted twenty minutes or half an hour, and were mainly conducted in silence. Whilst the apparitions were visible, the witches remained prostrate, and the people looked on quite spellbound. Gradually the spirits would melt away again in the smoke, and vanish from sight, after which the assembly would disperse in silence, and by next morning all the invited blacks would have gone off to their respective homes. The witches, as I afterwards learnt, lived alone in caves ; and that they possessed wonderful powers of pro- phecy was evidenced in my own case, because they told me when I came among them that I would still be many years with their people, but that I would eventually return to my own kind. The warriors, too, invariably consulted these oracles before departing on hunting or fighting expeditions, and reli- giously followed their advice.

My two children were a source of great delight to me at this time, although of course they were half- castes, the colour of their skin being very little different from that of their mother. The whiteness of their hands and finger-nails, however, clearly indicated their origin. They were not christened in the Christian way, but neither brought up exactly in the same native children.

I taught them English. I loved them dearly, and used to make for

them a variety of gold ornaments, such as bangles and armlets. They did not partici- pate in all the rough games of the black children, yet they were very popular, having winning manners, and being very quick to learn. I often told them about my life in other parts of the world, but whenever I spoke of civilization, I classed all the nations of the universe together, and referred to them as " my

Vol. iii.-2.

home,' or "my country." 1 did not attem])t to distinguish between France or Switzerland, England or America. Curiously enough, the subject that interested them most was the animal kingdom, and when I told them that I hoped some day to take them away with me to see my great country, and the animals it contained, they were immensely delighted. Particularly they wanted to see the horse, the lion, and the elephant. Taking a yam-stick as pointer, I would often draw roughly in the sand almost every animal in Nature. But even when these rough designs were made for my admiring audience, I found it extremely difficult to convey an idea of that part in the economy of Nature which each creature played. I would tell them, however, that the horse was used for fighting purposes and for travel, that the cow yielded food and drink, and that the dogs drew sledges. It was. abso- lutely necessary to dwell only on the utilitarian

1 WOULD OFTEN \>\<\\\

.Nl) « 1 1 H

were they way as the

A Teacher ,.orir of English. ''Cf)

side of things. Both children eventually died from a kind of fever about the year 1891 or 1892. Only the girl was initiated, the boy dying before his initiation ceremony was due. Both of my children were very proud of my position among and influence over the blacks.

And really I looked like a black a^lflc" myself at this time — not so much on account of exposure, as because my body was constantly coated with the charcoal and grease which ser\e as a protection from the weather and from insects. My children, you may be interested to learn, never grasped

10

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

the fact that my exile was otht r than quite voluntary on my i)art.

The children of the blacks, by the way, con- tinued to interest me as much as ever (I was always fond of children), and I never grew tired of watching them at their quaint little games. I think they all loved me as much as I did them, and I was glad to see that their lives were one long dream of happiness. They had no .school to attend, no work to perform, and no punishment to suffer. 'Inhere are no children like the cliildrcn of the bush for perfect contentment. They seldom or never quar- relled, and all day long they were playing happily about the camp, practising throwing their reed spears, climbing the trees after the honey-pods, and indulging in a thousand and one merry pranks. Often and often I looked at these robust little rascals, and com- pared them sadly with my own chil- dren, who were so delicate from the very first and who caused me so much anxiety and heart- ache.

When the com bination of circum- stances which are now well known to my readers caused me to settle down in my mountain home, two or three hundred miles to the north of Gib- son's Desert, I had no idea that I should remain there for many years.

I^ut strangely enough, as year after c'ontVnt. year slipped by, the desire to return to

civilization seemed to leave me, and I was quite content with my lot. Gradually I began to feel that if civilization — represented, say, by a large caravan— were to come to me, and its leader was willing not merely to take me away, but my wife and children also, then indeed I would consent to go ; but on no con- sideration could I be induced to leave those who were now so near and dear to me. I may as well mention here that I had many chances

A GKKAT DAKKNESS CA.MF. 0\EK THE KACE OK NATURE,

of returning alone to civilization, but I never availed myself of them. As I spent the greater part of twenty years in my mountain home, it stands to reason that it is this part of my career which I consult for curious and remarkable incidents.

One day a great darkness suddenly came over the face of Nature. The sombre gloom was relieved only by a strange lurid glare, that

hung on the' distant horizon far away across that weird land. The air was soon filled with fine ashes, which descended in such quantities as to cover all vegetation, and completely hide all exposed water- holes and lagoons. Even at the time I attributed the phe- nomenon to volcanic disturbance, and I have since found by inquiries that it was most likely due to an eruption of the volcano of Kra- katoa. This visita- tion occasioned very great consternation among the super- stitious blacks, who concluded that the spirits had been angered by some of their own misdeeds, and were manifest- ing their wrath in this unpleasant way. I did not attempt to enlighten them as to its true cause, but gave them to understand vaguely that I had something to do with it. I also told them that the great spirit, whose representative I was, was burning up the land.

Another phenomenon that caused

Unknown much mystification and terror was the

Terror, ^clipsc of the sun. Ncvcr, I think,

have I seen my blacks in such a state

of excitement and terror as when that intense

darkness came suddenly over the world at

midday. They came crowding instinctively to

me, and I stood silent among the cowering

creatures, not thinking it politic for a moment

THE ADVENTURES OF LOUIS DE ROUGEMONT.

II

to break the strange and appalling stillness that prevailed on every hand, and which extended even to the animal world. The trembling blacks were convinced that night had suddenly descended upon them, and they had no explana- tion whatever to offer. They seemed cjuite unfamiliar with the phenomenon, and it .was apparently not one of those many things which their forefothers wove superstitious stories around, to hand down to their children. As the great darkness continued, the natives retired to rest, without even holding the usual evening chant. I did not attempt to explain the real reason of the phenomenon to them, but as I had no particular end to serve then, I did not tell them that it was due to my power.

Never once, you see, did I lose an opportunity of impressing the savages, among whom 1 dwelt. On several occasions, having all the ingredients at my disposal, I attempted to make gunpowder, but truth to tell, my experiments were not attended with very great success. I had charcoal, saltpetre, and sulphur ready to my hand, and all obtainable from natural sources close by ; but the result of all my efforts — and I tried mixing the ingredients in every conceiv- able way — was a very coarse kind of powder possessed of practically no explosive force, but which would go off with an absurd "puff."

I was very anxious to make an explosive

'"t'ur'i'of" powder, however, not merely because

Gunpowder, jj- ^yould assist me in impressing the

blacks, but also be- cause I proposed carrying out certain blasting operations in order to obtain minerals and stones which I thought would be useful. The net result was that although I could not manufacture any potent ex- plosive, yet I did succeed in arousing the intense curiosity of the blacks. My powder burnt without noise, and the natives could never quite make out where the flame came from.

As there seemed to be a never-ending eagerness on the part of the blacks to witness the wonders of the white man, I even tried my hand at making ice — a commodity which is, of course, absolutely un- known in these regions. The idea came to me one day when I found

myself in a very cool cave, in which there was a well of surprisingly cold water. Accord- ingly, I filled some opossum skins with the refreshing fluid, placed them in the coolest part of the cave, and then covered them with saltpetre, of which there was an abundance. When I tell you that the experiment was quite fruitless, you will readily understand that I did not always succeed in my role of wonder-worker. \Vhenever I was defeated, however, it only had the effect of making me set my wits to work to devise something still more wonderful, and which I was certain would be an assured success. Whilst taking a stroll in the region of my mountain home one day, my eyes — which were by this time almost as highly trained as those of the blacks them- selves— suddenly fastened upon a thin stream of some greenish fluid which was apparently oozing out of the rocky ground. Closer investi- gation proved that this was not water. I collected a quantity of it in a kangaroo skin, but this took a considerable time, because the liquid oozed very slowly.

I would not have taken this trouble ■'^F?nd°"° \vere it not that I was pretty certain I had discovered a spring of cnide petro- leum. Immediately, and by a kind of instinct, it occurred to me that I might make use of this oil as yet another means of impressing the blacks with my magical powers. Of course I told no one of my discovery, not even \'amba. First of all

I constructed a sort of raft from the branches of trees, saturating each branch with the oil. I also placed a shallow skin re- servoir of oil on the upper

I HAL) DISCOVERED A SPRING OF CRUDE PETROLEf.M.

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end of the raft, and concealed it with twigs and leaves. This done, I launched my interest- ing craft on the waters of the lagoon, having so far carried out all my preparations in the strictest secrecy. A\'hen everything was ready I sent out invitations by mail men, smoke-signals, and message sticks to the tribes far and near tc come and see me set fire to the water ! In parentheses, I may remark that, with regard to smoke-signals, white smoke only is allowed to ascend in wreaths and curls, whilst black smoke is sent up in one great volume. As by this time my fame was pretty well established, the wonder- loving children of Nature lost no time in re- sponding to the summons, and at length, when the mystic glow of a Central Australian evening had settled over the scene, a great gathering had established itself on the shores ot the lagoon. On such occasions, however, I always saw to it that my audience were not too pear. At the

the white man among them was indeed a great and powerful spirit.

But, human nature being fundamentally the same all the world over, it was natural enough — and, indeed, the wonder is how I escaped so long — that one or other of the tribal medicine men should get jealous of my power and seek to overthrow me. Now, the medicine man belonging to the tribe in my mountain home presently found himself, or fancied himself, under a cloud, the reason, of course, being that my display of wonders far transcended anything he himself could do. The ultimate result of this state of things was that my rival commenced an insidious campaign against me, trying to explain away every wonderful thing that I did, and assuring the blacks that if I were a spirit at all it was certainly a spirit of evil. He never once lost an opportunity of throwing discredit and ridicule upon me and my powers,

' THF.V DID ACTIJAI.l.V HEI.IEVE I HAr> SET fIRE TO THE WATER ITSELF.

same time there was little chance of failure, because the blacTcs had long since grown to believe in me blindly and implicitly.

With much ceremony I set fire to the "^^rIu.'^ raft, hoisted a little bark sail upon it,

and pushed it off. It lay very low in the water, and as the amazed onlookers saw it gliding across the placid waters of .the lagoon enveloped in smoke and flames, they did actually believe that I had set fire to the water itself. They remained watching the blazing raft till the fire died down, when they retired to their own homes, more convinced than ever that

and at length I discerned symptoms in the tribe which rendered it imperatively necessary that I should take immediate and drastic steps to overthrow my rival, who, by the way, had commenced trying to duplicate every one of my tricks or feats. I gave the matter some little thought, and one day, whilst out on one of my usual solitary rambles, I came across a curious natural feature which suggested to me a novel and, I venture to say, remarkable solution of a very serious subject.

I suddenly stood on the brink of a o" s'naktL^ peculiar basin-like depression, which.

THE ADVENTURES OF LOUIS I)E ROUCIEMOXT.

13

from its obvious dampness and profusion uf bush and cover, I at once recognised as the ideal abode of innumerable snakes. I marked the spot in my mind and returned home, ponder- ing the details of the dramatic victory I hoped to win. Dav by day I returned to this depression and caught numerous black and carpet snakes. From each one of '

these dangerous and .. poisonous reptiles I removed the poison fangs only, and then, after scoring it with a cross by means of my stiletto, I let it go, knowinu full well that it would never leave a spot so ideal — from a snake's point of view. I operated on a great number of the deadly reptiles' in this way, but, of course, there re- mained many which were not so treated, whilst several of my queer patients died outright under the operation. Needless to say, I might have met my own death in this extraordinary business had I not been assisted by my

devoted wife. When we had finished our work, there was absolutely nothing in the appearance of the place to indicate that it was any different from what it was when I first cast my eyes upon it.

Then, all being ready, I chose a specially dramatic moment at a corroboree to challenge my rival in a war song, this challenge being sub- stantially as follows : " You tell the people that you are as great as I — the all-powerful white spirit-man. Well, now, I offer you a formal challenge to perform the feat which I shall perform on a certain day and at a certain spot." The day was the very next day, and the spot, of course, the scene of my strange surgical operations upon the snakes. The effect of my challenge was magical.

The jealous medicine man, boldly and Dangerous opeuly challenged before the whole

Enemy, ^^ibc, had no time to make up an

evasive reply, and he accepted then

and there. Urgent messages were dispatched,

by the fun-loving blacks, to tribes both far and

1 REMOVED THE I'OISON FANGS AM) SCORED IT WITH A CR

near. It was about midday when the ridge was crowded with expectant blacks, every one of whom dearly loved a contest or competition of any kind. I was brilliant with zebra-like decora- tive markings befitting the great occasion. I lost no time — for in love or war shilly-shallying is un- known among the blacks — but boldly leaped

down into the hollow armed only with a stick and a reed whistle, which I had made' for myself solely with the view of enticing the snakes from their holes. I cast a tri- umphant glance at my impassive rival, who, up to this moment, had not the faintest idea what the proposed ordeal was. I com- menced to play as lively a tune as the limited number of notes in the whistle would , allow, and before I had been „ .^ ,^ .-,-,— - playing a minute the

j|M|n^' ^/ ^ ' "^ " snakes came gliding

*" "^ ^* out, swinging their

heads backwards and forwards and from side to side as though they were under a spell. Selecting a huge black snake, who bore unobtrusively my safety maik, I pounced down upon him and presented my bare arm. After teasing the reptile two or three times I allowed him to strike his teeth deep into my flesh, and immediately the blood began to run. I also permitted several other fangless snakes to bite me until mv arms and legs— and, indeed, most of my body— were covered with blood. Personally, I did not feel much the worse, as the bites were mere punc- tures, and I knew the selected reptiles to be quite innocuous. Several " unmarked '" snakes, however, manifested an eager desire to join in the fun, and I had some difificulty in escaping their attentions. I had to wave them aside with the stick.

All this time the blacks above me *"^ene.'"^ \^'ere yelling with excitement, and I am under the impression that several were lamenting my madness, whilst others were turning ai;grily upon my rival, and accusing him of having brought about my death. At a

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favourable moment I rushed up the ridge of the hollow and stood before the horrified medicine man, who, in response to my triumphant demand to go and do likewise, returned a feeble and tremulous negative. Even he, I think, was now sincerely convinced that I was possessed of superhuman powers ; but it would have been awkward had he come along

nominated instead a youth I had trained for the position. It may be necessary here to remark that the blacks, under no circumstances, kill a medicine man. My defeated rival was a man of very considerable power, and I knew quite well that if I did not get the best of him he would have 7ne driven out of the tribe and perhaps speared.

I PERMITTED SEVERAL OTHER KANGLESS SNAKES TO BITE ME.

when I was laboriously and surreptitiously extracting the poison fangs from the snakes and placing my "hall mark" upon them.

His refusal cost him his prestige, and he was forthwith driven from the tribe as a fraud, whilst my fame rose higher than ever. The blacks now wished me to take over the office of medicine man, but I declined to do so, and

Mention of the snake incident reminds ^spoM.'' 11^^ of ^ ^'^''y peculiar and interesting

sport which the blacks indulge in. I refer to fights between snakes and iguanas. These combats certainly afford very fine sport. The two creatures are always at mortal enmity with one another, but as a rule the iguana com- mences the attack, no matter how much bigger

THK ADVF.XTl'R-KS C)l' LOUIS \)V: ROUCKMONT.

15

the snake may be than himself, or whether it is poisonous or not. I have seen iguanas attack black snakes from 6ft. to loft. in length, whilst they themselves rarely measured more than 3ft.

then advance slowly towards its opponent and attempt to strike, but, as a rule, the big one crushes it before it can do any harm. I had often heard of the joke about two snakes of

THE BEGINNING OF THE COMB.\T — SNAKE V. IGUAN.\.

or 4ft. As a rule the iguana makes a snapping bite at the snake a few inches below its head, and the latter instandy retaliates by striking its enemy with its poisonous fangs. Then an extraordinary thing happens. The iguana will let go his hold and straightway make for a kind of fern, which he eats in considerable quantities, the object of this being to counteract the effects of the poison. When he thinks he has had enough of the antidote he rushes back to the scene of the encounter and resumes the attack ; f/ie snake akvays waiting there for him. Again and again the snake bites the iguana, and a often the latter has recourse to the counteracting influences of the antidote. The fight may last for upwards of an hour, but eventually the iguana conquers. The final struggle is most exciting. The iguana seizes hold of the snake five or six inches below the head, and this time refuses to let go his hold, no matter how much the snake may struggle and enwrap him in its coils. Over and over roll the combatants, but the grip of the iguana is relentless ; and the struggles of the snake grow weaker, until at length he is stretched out dead. Then the triumphant iguana steals slowly away.

The spectators would never dream of thiv'ic'torf l^i'-li'ig him, partly on account of their

admiration for his prowess, but more particularly because his flesh is tainted with poison from the repeated snake bites. These curious fights generally take place near water-holes.

I have also seen remarkable combats between snakes of various species and sizes. A small snake will always .respond to the challenge of a much larger one, this challenge taking the form of rearing up and hissing. The little snake will

equal size trying to swallow one another, and was, therefore, the more interested when I came across this identical situation in real life. One day, right in my track, lay two very large snakes which had evidently been engaged in a very

" THE GRIP OF THE IGUANA IS RELENTLESS."

serious encounter, and the victor had com- menced swallowing his exhausted adversary. He had disposed of some three or four feet of that adversary's length when I arrived on the scene, and was evidently resting before taking in the rest. I easily made prisoners of both.

(To be continued.)

The Holy Week Procession in Sevi//e.

Bv HEKiiiiRT Vivian.

A vivid and striking glimpse of religious fervour in the glowing South. All about the remarkable Holy Week Procession in Seville, with impressive photographs from our own commissioner.

liri HER Puritanism nor iconoclasm arc intended when I say that Seville is the home of dramatic religion, on a scale no less striking and elaborate than the worship of the old classical dciiie.->, which depended above all on amusing and interesting the masses. The piety and fervour of Seville are altogether amazing to the Protestant mind As an instance of the religious zeal which obtains at Seville, I may mention that the newspapers there devote nearly half a column every day to the various ecclesi- astical functions. Religion in Seville is not a mere outward form, but a vital part of the daily life of the people.

All the innumerable feasts of the Church are zealously observed in Spain, but the Holy Week processions at Seville are certainly the most elaborate expression of Christian ritual to be found anywhere in the world. Therefore, it is easy to understand that they should attract

countless visitors from every part of the world year after year, and that prices should be doubled or even trebled, and that the whole population should abandon itself to what may almost be described as a perfect carnival of religious enthusiasm.

The processions were originally started in the Middle Ages by a number of religious confra- ternities. Like political and other societies, the confraternities stimulate the zeal of their members by allowing them to dress up in a striking manner, and by conferring upon them all kinds of fine-sounding titles. They appeal also to the sense of mystery as well as to that of display. In old times the show was often grotesque. Christ would be represented as a mediaeval courtier with a wig, sword, and knee - breeches, or the Virgin would appear as a stage marionette of the rudest design— that is, of course, judged from our standpoint. Now, however, ever)thing is artistic

f'roiii a\

THR GREAT PROCESSIO.N I'ASSINi; THROUGH THE ll.AZA DE SAN FRANCISCO.

{Photo.

THE HOLY WEEK PROCESSION IN SEVILLE.

17

and decorous, so that none may deny his tribute of admiration.

There are at present no fewer than forty-four of these confraternities in Seville, besides twelve in the suburb of Triana. Each bears a name which sounds strangely in our ears, such as the Confraternity of Our Father Jesus of Great Power ; the Confraternity of the Most Holy !Mary of the O. ; the Confraternity of the Con- version of the Good Thief; the Confraternity of the Fifth Agony of Mary the Most Holy, etc. Each confraternity has a chapel, where it keeps the various paraphernalia required for the procession.

Among these, most particular attention is devoted to the groups of images known as pasos, some of them real works of art— some of them quite the reverse. Practically, they are georgeous and realistic tableaux, the life-sized figures wondrously carved in wood and clothed in costly robes. They are moved along the streets on huge biers borne by men concealed beneath them with draperies, so that they appear to be advancing mysteriously by themselves. It is only on the occasion of the Holy A\'eek procession, at times of plague and pestilence, or the rare festivals of the various confraternities that the pasos emerge at all. During the rest of the year they are carefully warehoused, with all their gorgeous appliances.

Our first illustration represents a part of the procession passing through the Plaza de San Francisco, one of the principal squares of Seville, in which seats are most eagerly coveted. A good-humoured, gossip- ing crowd of sightseers (very characteristic of Seville) fills the whole square, save only a lane, which is, with difficulty, preserved for the proces- sion as it makes its way into the Sierpes, a very narrow street, which has been chosen as the

Vol. iii— 3.

f;ishionable lounge of the town, chiefly because carriages are not allowed to proceed along it. In the centre of the picture, escorted and followed by priests in full canonicals, may be discerned the paso of the Con- fraternity of the Immaculate Conception with a conspicuous image of the Virgin, clad in an exceedingly rich cloak of purple velvet, embroidered with gold. The word paso really signifies a group or figure in commemoration of the Passion ; but it has come to be applied to any group or figure which is carried in procession.

The next illustration is the most elaborate and complicated paso of all. It represents the meeting of Christ with St. Veronica, who held out a handkerchief to Him, upon which the imprint of His face remained. In the centre of the group He is carrying His cross, aided by

THE LARGEST OF THE " PASOS " — CHRIST MEETING ST. VERONICA. ('NOTICE THE

From a] extraordinary hooded costu.mes of the confraternity.) [Pkoto.

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THE WIDE WORLD >[AGAZINE.

towards all images of Our Lady, but reserve their special devotion for those which are credited with a miraculous origin. These remind one of the Pagan idols which are supposed to have fallen from Jupiter, and are either believed to have come down from Heaven or else to have been secreted by the Goths at the time of the Moorish invasion. This image of the Virgin of Protection was found some three hundred years' ago in a recess of a well, where the Chapel of the Confraternity was erected to commemorate the event. Every sort of miracle is said to have been performed by it, particularly at periods of pestilence, when it is always taken out in procession.

It is borne upon a platform of carved silver, adorned with a gorgeous dais and a number of silver figures of saints and proi)hets, and is illuminated by an impos- ing array of tall candles. It has one of the richest cloaks of any sacred image extant, which is made of the thickest velvet, pro- fusely embroidered with gold, and valued at over ;^2,ooo. As the image passes every head is uncovered, and the more pious

1111. IHKCIOLS IMAt.E Ol- THK lil.ESSEO VIRGIN. (tHK cloak I.S worth ;£2,000.)

/■rout a I'hoto.

Simon of Cyrene, whose bearded face may be made out in the back- ground. A Jew, holding a rope and blowing a trumpet, occupies a far too conspicuous position in front. On one side .St. Veronica is kneeling with the iiandkerchief ; on the other are three " daughters of Jerusalem," whom Christ forbade to weep for Him. One of the two thieves is cons[)icuous with bared chest, but the other is hidden in the photo- graph. At the back are three Roman .soldiers, the senatus or banner and eagle of the third being just discernible. The individual figures are admirably natural, but they are far too numerous for the exigencies of space on the platform. The next photograph shows us one of the most venerated of all the images, that of the Most Holy Mary of Protection, which belongs to a confraternity in Triana, the gipsy suburb and special haunt of all the cut throats of Seville. Spaniards display great reverence

i-roiit a\

CHRIST C.\KRVINr, IMS CROSS.

yi'itoto.

THE HOLY WEEK PROCESSION IN SEVILLE.

19

people in the crowd fall on their knees to chant special hymns in its honour.

The next paso is that of the Confraternity of Jesus of Nazareth. The figure is one of the most celebrated, from the artistic point of view. The attitude of the Saviour has aroused much contro- versy, but the general oj)inion is that He is in the act of blessing the Cross as He takes it up. A silver cherub at the back seems to be alleviating the burthen, and there are two others in front,, one with a ladder to signify the approaching descent from the Cross. The Figure is standing upon a mound to represent Calvary, amid six handsome gilt candelabra. Along the sides of the pedestal are reliefs of various scenes of the Passion.

The Confraternity of the Most Holy Christ of the

From a\ " PASO " OF THE MOST HOI.V CHRIST OK I'HE WATERS. [ I'/loto.

THE I'ROCESSION I'ASSI.NG DOWN A NARROW STREET OF SEVILLE. CnOTICE THE NAZARENES AND

From a\ their hood-masks.) [Photo.

Waters at Triana, on the other hand, is one of the most modern ones, dating only from 1750, but the figure on its chief paso is of very ancient origin. In front of the crucifix we see an angel holding a chalice to receive the water and blood shed from the Saviour's wounded side ; and in the foreground . is an image of the Virgin, wearing a crown and velvet cloak. Her image is often detached and carried upon a separate stand.

The accompanying photograph gives a very good idea of the passage of the procession through one of the narrower streets of the town, with the people huddled against the white walls to make room for a paso, escorted by gendarmes and preceded by wliite Nazarenes, with their curious old masked costume and pointed caps

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stiffened with ca rd board. The/>aso itself is one of the more modern ones and needs no par- ticular descrip- tion, but the Confraternity of the Seven \\' o r d s , to which it be longs, is one of the most ancient in Seville. It was formed in honour of an image of Our I-ndy of the I lead and the Remedies, whit:h was re- vealed to a shepherd in the Sierra Morcna by the tinkling of a bell in the year 1227. Among the prodigies per- formed by the image was the restoration of the shepherd's hand, which he had lost some }ears before.

Our next two illustrations refer to the Confraternity of the Prayer in the Carden, one of the richest in groups of images and in its collec- tion of chased silver insignia. It was founded in 1560 by the boatmen of the C.uadal- f|uivir, and soon obtained high patronage, which brought in much wealth.

The />i7So of the Trayer in the (iarden is one of the most admired. In the centre is the Saviour on His knees, exhausted by His bloody sweat and the anticipation of His Passion. The attitude and expression of the face are admirably worked, and constitute one of the triumphs of that art of wood figure-

IKAVIJ; 1\ TIIK tiARDEN — ONK or THI-: KICllKST c >I- TMK (UilHl

From a Ph"to.

COSTUME OF A NAZARENE OF THE

From a\ in the garden."

PRAYER

{Photo.

carving in which the Spaniards have so parti- cularly excell- ed. Facing Him is a finely carved angel, with a cup in the right hand and a cross in the left, and behind Him the Apostles, Peter, James, and John, plunged in the most real- istic slumbers. It might be objected at first sight that there is a great similarity in these various groups, but in reality they differ in their own special points of excel- lence as much as the treat- ment of sacred subjects by the old masters. Moreover, each occupies itself with a different incident of Christ's Passion, so that if we watch the passage of all the groups we are enabled to see the whole story enacted before our eyes, almost as dramatically as in any of the old mystery plays. The figures being dressed and painted in natural colours adds much to the realism of the scene.

The photograph of the Naznrene of the Prayer in the (iarden may be taken as an excellent type of the costume which has been worn at the procession ever since it was instituted, except that dainty shoes have now superseded the bare feet which used to be considered an indispens- able proof of penitence. The white tunic was also, doubt-

THE HOLY WEEK PROCESSION IN SEVILLE.

21

less, far less spick and span in times when the Nazarenes flogged them- selves publicly through- out the procession until they streamed with blood. The cloak and hood cannot have differed very greatly, however. During the procession a Xazarene will pick up the tail of his cloak and carry it over his arm. Before the start you may see him rolling cigarettes com- placently, with the flap of his hood turned back, but presently he lets it down like a vizor, and then you may only descry his eyes by com- ing very close and search- ing for the narrow slits. Surely no costume could afford a more effective

ANOTHER XAZARENE — CONPRATERNITV OF OUR FATHER

From a\ jEscs OF the three f.m.ls. [Photo.

disguise at carnival time.

Ihe next photograph shows us a Nazarene of the Confraternity of Our Father Jesus of the Three Falls. He is carrying one of the favourite emblems, intended to proclaim the Immaculate Conception of the Virgin, a doctrine which has been cherished at Seville with fierce fervour for centuries. The words '^ sine labe concepta "' (conceived with- out sin) are richly em- broidered in gold upon a velvet banner of unique shape, which is paraded upon a pole.

- iiC origin of the name of Nazarene is not positively known. Some derive it from the name

From a]

.\ PAUSE IN ORDER THAT THE HIDDEN BEARERS OF THt

[Photo.

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applied by the Jews to Jesus of Nazareth ; others identify it with the word applied to con- templative hermits in Christ's day. The different confraternities wear different cloaks and hoods, and are distinguished by the shields, worked in leather, on the breast. Those of the Prayer in the (larden are a chalice upon a cross. Nazar- enes were formerly divided into Brethren of the Blood, who flogged themselves, and Brethren of the Light, who carried tapers. Now the flagellation has been put down, at least in public, and all carry candles. These candles are a fruitful source of revenue to the confraternities, for the ends are greedily bought up by the faithful, who consider them a potent charm against lightning, and, if lighted at a death-bed, a sure passport to heavenly bliss.

'I'he illustration shown at the bottom of the previous page is taken from a picture by the artist Bejarano, painted in the fifties, as

of what is perhaps the most realistic paso of all. It represents Christ bearing the Cross on His way to Calvary ; and as we look at it we seem to realize the immense weight of the burthen. He appears actually to stagger beneath it, and the attitude of the feet, with the right one pressing forward upon the toes, conveys an impression of slow, arduous motion better than any work of art I know. I'he face is also an inspired model of saintly patience, and the only criticism which suggests itself is that, according to our notions, the em- broidered robe is grotesquely out of keeping. It is related of an Archbishop of Seville some years ago that, after admiring the image for a long time in silence, he exclaimed, " It has but one fault." His companions, who conceived the figure to be faultless, expressed the utmost curiosity to learn what his Grace's criticism would be, whereupon he added, " The one

From a\

' l-.wSiJ OF CHRIST ON HIS WAV TO CALVARV, ASSISIEU liV sl.MUN UK CYJ<Ei\iC.

{Photo.

may be seen from the dresses of the bystanders. It represents one of the frequent pauses in the procession that the bearers may take breath and the candles be relighted. The paso is that of the Confraternity of Montserrat, which was founded in honour of a famous place of pilgrimage in Catalonia, and represents the Prophet Isaiah writing his inspired volume.

The next photograph gives a very good idea

thing lacking is that it does not breathe!" The figure of Simon of Cyrene is also well executed, and the gilded stand is magnificent, though in quite a modern way.

It is curious to notice how carefully the various parts of the body have been moulded, though they are all to be covered from the public gaze. In some cases the figures are mere artists' models, excepting only the parts

THE HOLY WEEK PROCESSION IN SEVILLE.

'■3

which are to be visible. In this case the image was probably venerated before there was any idea of clothing it or carrying it in a procession. The arms have, however, been dislocated to facilitate the dressing, and a piece of iron has been attached to the left shoulder in order to attach the cross. The care of the wardrobe of an image in Spain is as elaborate as that of a Sovereign, and all sorts of cere- monies are maintained for donning and dofifing the clothes. It is, for

instance, a very strict rule that no

man may dress or undress an image of the Virgin, such as that of Our Lady of Supreme Grief, whose mag- nificent mantle, although only pre- sented to the con- fraternity in 1873, is probably the richest and most admired of all the wonderful treasury of vestments to be found in Seville. It took seven years to make, and cost well over ^4,000.

The J>cJso of the Confraternity of the Sacred Descent from the Cross and Fifth Agony of Mary Most Holy is the work of the famous sculptor, Roldan, and enjoys a just reputation. Nicode- mus and Joseph of Arimathea are letting down the Body of the Saviour with linen bands ; the Virgin and St. John (who is dressed in green) stand at the foot ladders, while St. Mary Magdalen and other Mary are kneeling and holding a sheet of the finest linen to receive Body. The act of the Descent is very rendered, down to the smallest

THE UF.SCENT

Fiotn d\

FKOM THE CROSS.

KA.MilLS SCU

always

of the

the

out

the

well

muscular

detail. The stand, on which the group is taken out, is also of great artistic merit. It is of cedar-wood, adorned with the various attributes of the Passion and the shields of the religious orders, which have been incor[)oratcd in the Confraternity.

Another paso belongs to the Confraternity of Our Father Jesus of the Three Falls, and represents Our Lady of Loreto enshrined behind a blaze of candles. Her image is a very sympathetic reproduction of the best type of Andalusian beauty, with its combination of

dignity and charm. The clothing is enriched with a wealth of precious jewels, and the crown alone is worth

According to our notions the turmoil of this procession, with its armies of masqueraders, Roman soldiers, Nazarenes, tipstaffs, military bands, emblems, torches, and candles, savours more of a carnival than of the cele- bration of the most sacred of the Christian mysteries, but there can be no doubt that a great wave of en- thusiastic devotion is inspired through- out the whole native population, and there can be no lover of the mediaeval and the picturesque — to put it on the lowest ground — but would bewail its discontinuance in obedience to the spread of modern utilitarian ideas. Far from any prospect of this, however, the procession increases every year in grandeur and magnifi- cence, and neither national calamities nor the spirit of the age have yet contrived to impair its ancient glory.

(this ■■ I'ASO IS I HE WORK OF THE l.l-TOK, ROLDAN.) [I'/lotO.

15 V John H. Jones.

An extraordinary and amusing episode of life in the Wild West. How a fiery young Texan lover was fooled in a fashion remarkable alike for originality and daring. The incident is well known

and remembered locally.

f?*^'

Ill^ suiiiiiicr of 1894 found me teaching a subscription school at Rainbow, on Rainbow C'leek, in the north of Hunt County, Texas. If your map is a large one, you will lind Rambow Creek close to Hickory Creek rost-otifice, seven miles from Wolfe City, and six from Celeste. That summer was very hot, even for Texas, and the school dried out in about six weeks. The youngsters used to tuml'le over fast asleep, and the older scholars (some of them older than myself, as 1 was only twcnty-thrt-e at that time) found it exceedingly difficult to keep from nodding. The folding doors were kept wide open, and the window- sashes taken out of their frames, but still the heat was intolerable. And when a hot dry wind swept in from the North-\\'est plains the school came to grief most dolefully, 'i'he ther- mometer was I iSdeg. in the shade !

.So I found mvself one broiling afternoon lazily lolling about the veranda of my boarding- liouse, and when a lively " Halloa ! " came from the road 1 only grunted. It was Charley Var- brough, a lanky youth of eighteen or so, and as he was riding a new horse I went out into the glare of the sunshine to look at it.

" Seen Miss Sally lately ? " asked Charley. I grinned and shook my head. Charley chewed his finger-ends restlessly for a while, and I continued examining his horse and making comments, when he broke out

suddenly : " Say, J^ck Jones, are you in for a lark ? "

" What lark ? " I asked.

Charley was a wildish kind of scamp, and Texas is a wildish kind of place, where a little caution is not always lost. After a little fidget- ing, Charley came out with an explanation something like this. Most of it I knew already, but the sequel made me jump.

Miss Sally Steddem had been left an orphan when a few years old, and was now under the guardianship of Mr. Lem Henslee, the son of one of the famous Texan Rangers, who made the name of Henslee known all along the Red River counties for a hundred miles or more. Miss Sally, at the time of which I write, had grown into a tall, splendid girl of aVjout nineteen, with the usual consequences. Lem Henslee's house was never free from such-like lanky youths as the one I was speaking to.

There was one of them, however, who believed himself to be the man of all men — at least, in Miss Sally's eyes. Nobody else thought so, least of all Miss Sally, but Sam Jumper's ardour made him blind to palpable facts. Mr. Lem Henslee strongly objected to Sam Jumper's presence in his house (so did Miss Sally, but Sam would not believe that), and Lem Henslee was a splendid shot, and an exceedingly tough customer all round. So Sam dodged about very carefully, and caught occasional glimpses of Miss Sally on the sly, and sent her occasional

mY TEXAN ELOPEMENT.

25

MR. JoH.V H. JONES, THE AUTHOR, WHO I.MPKKbdN A I tl MISS SALLY STEDDE.M.

From a Photo, by II 'ill S. Thompson, Bonham, Texas.

love-letters, over which Lem Henslee roared hi.s ribs out, so to speak, when Miss Sally showed them to him.

But Lem got tired of it and so did Miss Sally, and Lem gave Sam to understand that if he didn't leave the girl alone things would happen which would appal him. But this only fanned the flame of Sam's passion, as might be expected, and he went about with a wild glare in his eye and a big revolver in his pocket. But Lem Henslee had the reputation of being " as

MISS SALLY STEDDEM, WHOM SA.M JU.MPEK

wild as a buck," and was riot likely to stand much nonsense from such a fellow as Sam Jumper, who was about as good-looking a good- for-nothing as you could find. So Sam's hanker- ing was more after Miss Sally than Lem, and the two men did not come together. But there was a restless feeling among the parties con- cerned, when one morning Lem had a visitor in the shape of Sam's Mercury, and Lem and he had some conversation together which ended in a great deal of chuckling.

Then Sam Taylor, the aforesaid Mercury, issued forth and hunted up Charley Yarbrough, and unfolded to him a scheme which set their horses in a long lope in the direction of Lem Henslee's house. Half an hour afterwards Lem Henslee and Sam Taylor were shaking their sides with laughing at the ridiculous figure of Charley Yarbrough, half a yard of whose trouser-legs were sticking out of one of Miss

Sally's old gowns. .-.x " Boys," gasped Lem, when

he had

won't do.

breath enough, '■ it Sam Jumper isn't such a dog - goned idiot as all that."

And the others were fain to admit that he was probably correct.

Miss Sally was a fine, tall girl, but Charley had only just finished grow- ing, and was nearly, or quite, 6ft. high, and the foot or so of lean shanks which the gown left uncovered would have undeceived the most ardent lover in creation. And so the plot seemed hkely to fall through.

THOUGHT HE WAS

ELOPING WITH.

From J. Photo.

	X.	■		U^_.,.r__v^^,:: '-^ ^,		1 1^	1
	M	«
^ r	Aii*r*'4*^	t
%		■ «"*
	T, :.,	• »,- .'	«
•'		- ■ ■ ' "

1 in »Jv \\ A^

RAINBOW SCHOOL, HUN I UUl N 1 V, ItAA'- — 1 11 h Al

From a Photo, by Rice, Leottard, Texas. Vol. iii.— 4.

■ diU" )1..\1 AN 1 KK. A.^I> -MiN.--. bALLV A i 1 K.N Uh-tJ AN A

26

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

" If wc could only tie a knot in each of Charley's legs, now "

"Or get some other fellow "

" Not many of the boys would take on. It might be a bit rough if Sam didn't like it ; and it isn't likely he would.'

And when that scamp Charley Yarbrough got thus far with his stor)', he began to shoot side- long glances at me.

" Vou ain't very tall," he suggested, slily.

" Dare say not," I remarked, pretty drily. I could see, of course, what he was driving at, and I began to turn things over in my mind pretty rapidly.

It was a delicate siaiation. There was my position as school teacher to think of, and to be a prime mover in such an affair would be sure to compromi.se me in the eyes of the more sedate quarters of the community. Could I afford to risk it? And then, there were other risks. There is a strong vein of Spanish blood running through the Te.xans, which came from Mexico and which makes them hot and passionate ; and if a man would cut up rough at anything on earth, it would be on finding that he had eloped with the wrong girl. And when the girl turned out to be an athletic young man of about his own age, it would perhaps be best for that young man to get very quickly out of the road. .\i)d then, it was very rough on Sam.

" Oh, but, you know," said Charley, eagerly, "Sam is a mighty sorry sort of a boy, and he just worries Miss Sally's life out. She just hates him. ICverybody knows what an ornery cuss lie is, and Miss Sally doesn't like to have him fooling round her everywhere she goes, and "

"What does Miss Sally say about it ? "

"Oh ! she's into it all right. She's mighty tired of Sam Jumper fooling round her. Don't let it fall through, Jack, for I'm dog-goned if I know a ny body else who "

" I dare say not," quoth I.

"And Sam hasn't much grit in him, you know."

" All very well, but lliat would make a snake kick."

"And, of course, you won't be by yourself."

'MVho'll be there?" I asked, quickly.

" Oh ! There's Lem Henslee, and Hubert,

and Sam Taylor, and Bob Blankenship, and one or two more ; and if you like to bring a friend or two "

" All right ; I'm on." These were some of the wildest spirits in the country, and I knew they could be depended on at a push — especially the Henslees.

Charley's face was a picture. Off he went at full gallop, and I retired to cogitate.

There were several aspects to the affair. Of course, if Miss Sally wanted to get rid of Sam, and Sam obstinately refused to leave her in peace, he would have to be made to go ; and if it could be done without hurting him, so much the better. Besides, if Sam objected to the process, and turned crusty (according to the Texan idea of crustiness), there would be some tough boys behind me if it got too hot. Then came another thought : Sam would be sure to have a friend or two with him, and my party would, of course, hold aloof until the last moment, and a row in Texas is usually over in about a minute and a half And it is customary to have a funeral shortly afterwards.

" If there is any warm blood in Sam's veins at all, I had better keep a quick eye," I thought ; " but I'll be hanged if I back out now."

■f^:>f4-\^-^

\VK KOAKKU Al 1'(>I>1< (ll.l) SAM JU.MI'EK's AKUE.NT El'ISTLES.

The next few days were exciting. Several letters were passed, and we simply lay down and roared at poor old Sam Jumper's ardent epistles, which Sam Taylor faithfully carried to us. I began to get sorry for Sam, but I knew what he was, and very easily quieted my conscience.

The elopement, it seemed, was arranged for the beginning of August ; and about dusk one warm evening I found myself quietly entering

MY TEXAN ELOPEMENT.

Lem Henslee's house, which was situated in a clearing close by the creek. My horse was put up and fed, and I joined the group of boys in a large room in the front part of the house. The male portion of the genus homo, by the way, are all " boys " in Te.xas. They were a wild-looking lot to English eyes, in coloured shirts and long boots, with dark, swarthy faces, and deep-set, fierce-looking eyes. There was a low laugh as I softly entered.

" Be quiet, boys," said Lem, " Sam is sure to be hanging about in the brush. Sam Taylor says he is as hot as a steam-engine."

" Where is Sam Taylor ? "

"Oh! he's coming along with the bridal party, to keep Jack out when Jumper finds him out."

" Anybody else

Whereupon Lem lugged out some gear that made me tremble.

It was the first time I had ever perpetrated such a thing, and it made me sweat ; but at last I got into a light-coloured gown and tied a red sash round my waist. Then I put on a white poke bonnet. I had already shaved myself as clean as possible, but the bonnet would serve to hide my features. Meanwhile, as you might expect, the onlookers enjoyed themselves.

" Purtiest gal in Hunt County."

" Whacking big shoulders, though, for a gal."

" If Lem wasn't looking, I'd be a-hugging of her."

" What ! with them feet ?— Charley's stuck

them ?

I

with

asked.

"Why, yes,

there's Joe May-

ness coming along.

Sam Taylor says he

just couldn't keep

Jumper from fetch- ing him, and he

was afraid to kick

against it too much

for fear Jumper

should smell a rat. He tvas getting a

bit uneasy, Sam

says, but as soon

as Sam talks about Sally sorter sweetly, he just does pretty nearly what he's told, and quietens down lovely."

Whereat we grinned hugely.

"Well, it will be two to two, and I guess ive won't be far off," says somebody.

" Now, look here, boys," begins Lem, " the thing is to get Sapi well scared before he catches up with anything, Jack C^n't do anything but run, fastened up with Sally's long clothes, and he can't run much in thevL You see, we would never get there in time to do anything, and it

would be all over with Jack before ," and he

grinned so broadly that the others laughed out- right, and I broke in hastily with —

"Let's talk about something else. Where's that blamed gown affair ? What time have you fixed to starf; ? "

" Oh ! " was ^he reply, " Sam Taylor will try {Q sneak jn beforehand ; we reckoned about nine q'c}oc}c, but it vvon't hurt to keep the idiot waiting an hoiir or §Q."

THE ONLOOKERS ENJOYED THEMSELVES.

out about half a yard, and a good slice of leg along with them."

" Dog-gone it ! Put some gloves on to hide yourself ; Sam knows the feel of a gal's hand better than that."

The gown fitted beautifully ; it hung loose from the shoulders, which were jolly tight, and there was no trouble about the waist.

"Here's your grip. Miss Sally," said Lem's hired hand, as he handed over a huge port- manteau. I took it, but it fell with a thud There was a smothered burst of laughter.

" I tore up half a brick-path to ram into it ; mind you make Sam tote it."

"You bet," said I, laughing.

Jpst then the door opened, and we all started. Sam Taylor put in an excited appearance.

" Lpni ! Lein ! there's an eternal ciiss of a

28

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

dog sne.jcing round my legs. Call him in, or he will give the show away."

" Come in and shut the door. Where's .Sam ? "

" Got it all square ? "

" How's he take it ? "

" Which way did you come ? "

A regular volley of questions struck Sam Taylor, but he had caught sight of me, and couldn't speak for laughing. They uncere- moniously turned me round and round for Sam's edification, and all said that I looked more lady- like than they should have thought possible. Chiefly they noticed that I had grown taller. I didn't cut quite such a graceful figure as we should have liked, though, being somewhat thick-set — " chunkey," as they called it ; but I made "a right nice girl " if I would only keep m the shade, for the moon was getting up. After a while, when we quietened down, Sam Taylor told us that he had left the bride- groom-elect at the edge of the big pasture by the wire gate, whilst he crept forward to reconnoitre.

"Joe Mayness with him?"

" Yes."

"Got any guns?" — this from myself, as the party most interested.

" No."

"Thank goodness ! "

" But Joe has a knife as long as your arm, and Sam told me he had a beautiful pair of brass knucks."

Whereat the other idiots laughed as though it were funny.

"Sam allowed that a gun wouldn't be much good at night among the brush, and anyway, he didn't reckon he'd get catched, most likely."

" Why on earth didn't you get them to leave their blessed knuckle- dusters and knives at home and bring six- shooters ? It would have been ever so much safer," growled I.

" Look here, boys," went on Sam Taylor, the messenger, " it is most too bad. There's that poor boy been cleaning my buggy up till my old lady didn't know it ; he reckons on going to (ireenville in it to-night, and he fixed it up with a preacher to be ready to do the trick to morrow morning."

" Has he got the Hcense ? " " You bet ! He got it yesterday. L[ hot as a nigger at a big meeting. Now

e's

as

■= ".— "o- -— ■■ you

had better get ready. I'll sneak back first ; give me about ten minutes, and then cross over through the horse-lot, and stand under the big bois d\irc in front of the gate."

"Wait a bit, Sam," said Lem Henslee, "he won't hurt. You didn't come in the buggy, did you ? "

" No. Joe and I came on horseback, and Sam came on his old mule. We are to go to my house, and my old lady has fixed up some supper, and Sam reckons to light out to Green- ville in the buggy."

" But how does he reckon to get Sally there, then ? " asked Lem. Sam began to laugh.

Oh !

as we were

commg

along Joe said to

Sam : ' That old mule won't

you,' and Sam just looked bad

tote a gal behind

So

I guessed .Sally could ride behind

me, but Sam swore he'd be hanged

if she did. I guessed so too, but I

allowed to myself that

Jack might, if ever we

got that far. But I didn't

let on, and after awhile

Sam came down a bit, and

allowed that he couldn't

be jealous nohow. ' I

know she loves me,' says

Sam Jumper, as soft as a

sick calf, and he fairly

snivelled."

Whereat we nearly choked ourselves trying to keep quiet, and Sam Taylor slipped out.

After awhile I tied my bonnet - strings closely, and, taking my portman- teau, stole softly after him. The crescent moon was half up, and it flung long black shadows across the horse-lot. I went cau- tiously, yet hurriedly, try- ing to take short, quick steps like a girl, and to swing as little as possible. The portmanteau, choke- full of bricks, was an awful weight, and it took me all my time to keep from tripping. It never struck me till then how helpless I was. I could only see straight ahead, because of the long peak of the poke bonnet \ and the gown held my shoulders very tightly. I wondered what Miss Sally — the real Miss Sally — would say (or

MY TEXAN ELOPEMENT.

29

think) if my shoulders should burst throus^h her gown. I wondered, too, what she would say if she could see me just then !

Here I was at the first gate. I expect I cut rather an awkward figure getting through, what with the heavy grip and the clinging skirts, and the consciousness that eager eyes were watching my every motion. But 1 got through the horse- lot and shut the gate, then I stole quietly into the shadow of the big bois d'arc.

The moon was brighter than 1 had anti(i[)ated, and I could clearly see the dark clumps of trees and their heavy shadows around me. I don't know how long I waited ; not long, I suppose, but it seemed a very long time. Every moment I expected to see Sam Jumper and his con- federates dash out of the brush. I could hear the horses stamping in their stables ; one was loose in the lot, and was snuffing about just at the other side of the fence. It was a beautiful quiet night, and everything was still and peaceful. A couple of cows were lying close to the fence, quietly chewing their cud.

Suddenly 1 heard a door slam, and then I heard somebody stamping about on the veranda. Then I heard Lem Henslee calling his wife's name. There was no answer — Mrs. Henslee and Miss Sally were at the big camp meeting at Celeste, with some friends. Then Lem called out : —

" Where's Sally ? "

His voice rang out clearly in the still night air. Then —

" Whar's that gal got to ? " Then he called to Mrs. Henslee again. Again no answer. Then — " Whar the 'tarnal have you all got to ? Sally ! Sally ! " Then a long pause, and I heard him quickly pacing the veranda.

Then he shouted loudly : " .Sally ! Sally ! VV^har's that gal ? By the Almighty thunder, if

Sam Jumper's fooling round here Sally!

Sally! Where's my l)ridle? Til see into this. By thunder ! somebody's stolen mv bridle ! Sally ! Sally ! Hold up there ! Hold up 1

By , I'll ." And I thought Lem was

doing it splendidly.

" Hang it, though," I nmttered, " I wish Sam would come. If Lem has frightened him clean off it will be a sell." But Lem was bursting his way through the far gate, swearing like a fiend, and I thought he had started too soon and spoiled everything.

Suddenly there was a rush quite close to me. Three dark figures leapt out of a clump of trees only a few yards away. I had been fooling about among the folds of my gown for a long time trying to find the pocket, and just as the three figures sprang out, I placed Miss Sally's pocket-handkerchief before my face, and tried

to sob into it. Sam Taylor was first. He grabbed my arm and pulled me along.

" Take the grip ! Take the grip, Sam ! Hang it, man, be quick ! There's Lem Henslee raging like a madman I "

What with the bonnet and the handkerchief I could h.irdly see anything, but poor, deluded Sam Jumper was staggering along on my left side with the heavy portmanteau, and Joe Mayness was at the other side of him. Sam Taylor was on my right.

just then Lem gave a mighty roar. "There they are ! Hold up ! Hold u[), there ! " and the sharp sna|) of a revolver rang out.

" By Heaven I come along," called out Taylor. " Take hold of her, Sam ; help her along. She's going to faint ! She's going to faint ! ''

In an instant Sam had my left arm and Joe had the grip. Poor old Sam was trembling like a leaf and saying, " Don't cry ; don't cry, Sally ! It's all right, Sally, dear ; don't cry ; don't cry ! " while Lem was banging the gate about and roaring like a bull.

" Here, Hubert ! Bob I There ! There they are! Hold up there! Hold up!" and shot after shot rang out, whilst a wild tumult arose behind us, as one after another joined in the cluise.

" Uon't shoot, Lem ; don't shoot ; you'll hit the gal."

" I hit him ! I hit him ! There they are ! IIub-:t, where's your gun? There on the left! — there he is! 'I'hat's him !" and the air was filled with imprecations and yells and the sharp leoorts of the revolvers.

4.

Sam Taylor acted his part splendidly. He had his arm round my waist helping me along, so that Sam Jumper could only take my arm. Joe was stumbling along with that awful brick- filled portmanteau, talking to himself — swearing, I suppose. I remember holding my left arm as limply as possible so that it might feel soft.

On we went, Sam comforting me, and trem- bling as each shot was fired. Over rough scrub, across open glades, under huge trees, keeping in the deep shadows as much as possible ; panting, struggling, out of breath with excitement and e.xertion.

How I felt, I can hardly tell you. Put your- self in my place for an instant— in the grasp of a fiery young Texan lover, tearing through the wild thicket in the bright moonlight, with a yelling mob of half savage cowboys and hir-d hands shooting and swearing behind like so many fiends. We made straight for the creek bottom ; it was dry at this time of the year, and there a party of "the boys" was in ambush. At times I could have laughed, but I had to keep as alert as possible, for that long knife

30

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

and those brass knuckledusters were deeply impressed on my mind, and I didn't want them impressed on my body.

I was quivering with alertness, for I might be discovered at any ^^^

moment, and then it ■ 5^;*

was only by quickness that I expected to get safely away. Sud- il e n 1 y S a m Jumper stopped

of Hubert Henslee rose out of a clump of low brush right behind Sam.

" Hold up there ! " he fairly roared. Sam leaped sideways just in time to see a

sheet of flame leap out

of Hubert's huge Colt's

forty - four, and before

the roar came he had

made a spring of

about six feet.

Tucking up ray

^■^■^^^V"

' \VK MADE STRAIGHT FOR THE CREEK' BOTTOM.

ind pushed my shoulder. He swung round in front of me, and I knew that the game was up. ^\'e stood face to face for an instant, his right hand on my left shoulder, and his left hand clenched at his side.

'' Thar s not her !''

The words snapped out like pistol-shots. Joe Mayness dropped the grip and made a leap forward ; then stood stock-still. For an instant we stood like four statues : my eyes were glued on Sam Jumjicr's. I could see quite clearly in the moonlight how they were blazing : his face was flushed and set, his whole figure was rigid and motionless, and his fingers dug deep into my shoulder.

Like a flash his left hand went to his pocket ; like a flash I had twisted and sprung back. I dared not run. I was too much hampered by my skirts, and he would have been on me before I had gone five steps. I set myself to receive his spring, when like a spectre the form

skirts, away I went like the wind, dodging Joe Mayness easily. Sam Jumper was off in another direction ; then the two parties of pur- suers joined, and the din for a few minutes was frightful. Half-a-dozen pistol-shots rattled out in as many seconds ; wild Indian shrieks and savage yells made the night hideous. I saw no more of Sam Jumper that night. He leapt the wire fence like a deer : Joe Mayness, however, caught his foot in the barbs and came down heavily. \\'hen the boys came up with them they were hurriedly untying their horses.

"Sam," said Lem Henslee, quite quietly, "we boys found a grip out there in the thicket. Did either of you boys drop one ? " Sam glared and panted.

" You got me this time, but I'll see the inside of Silas Varbrough's brains for it."

He cut his mule across the loins with his quirk as he spoke, and in the bright moonlight a horse and a mule loped down the road through

MV TEXAN ELOPEMENT.

31

the thicket, and in a few minutes were hidden by the deep shadow of the woods.

It was a lively party that sat on Lem Henslee's veranda that night.

" One of you boys had better load up a gun ; he might take a notion to sneak back and pull down on some- body." , #11?;: >

"Not he; he's ^

had enough for one night. I never saw a worse scared boy. Shouldn't wonder if some of his teeth fell out. You could hear them rattling half a mile away."

"Take that white frock off, anyway, Jack. He thought you were Silas Yar- brough. I reckon we had better put Silas up to it, for fear Sam tries tricks on him."

For myself, I thought it would be nicer to fool Sam some more and let him go on thinking so, but it would hardly have been safe for Silas.

" I reckon we brought down

some stars," chuckled Hubert Henslee ; " the shots went pretty high."

" The small of Sam's back must have felt mighty shivery " ; and so the joking went on.

We arranged to keep the affair quiet, and separated about midnight.

Next morning at breakfast, old man Henslee — Ixm's father — looked over at me very quietly, and said, in a contemplative sort of voice : " Let

gentlemen,"

hOK AN INSTA.N F \\ E

me see, isn't it 3oodols. that the fine is, under United States law, for wearing women's clothes in public ? "

" Eh ? " said I, blankly.

However, I heard nothing more of it in that direction, except a little splutter from Sam,

which came to nothing.

That morning I went down to . Hickory Creek

for my letters. A crowd of men was hanging about the post- ofiice.

M o r n i n g, said I, as I got off my horse.

"Morning, Miss Sally!" " How do. Miss Sally." "How are ye. Miss Sally ? "

"I thought those boys were going to keep it quiet," said L

"Quiet! It was known in Wolfe City, Leonard, and Celeste before sun-up ; and I'll bet it is known in Bonham by now. Keep t/iaf ([uiet? I would have given a Seen any marshals

blOOD LIKE STATUES.

horse

yet ? "

to have seen it.

" Durn the marshals." " Sam is tearing about

mornmg ; you'd your old man-

like a wild hog this better look out. Miss Sally, or

" Durn my old man." But I slept with something hard under my pillow for some time, and kept the door shut.

A Naturalist in CannibahLand

By R. H. Mackellar.

Being a brief account of the exciting adventures experienced by a British officer in the little-known cannibal islands of the South Seas. Illustrated with photos, taken by Captain Cayley-Webster

himself, and with sketches from his own note-book.

APTAIN H. CAYLEY-WEBSTER, who-se photo, appears on this page, recently accomplished a very re- markable exploring and scientific journey amongst those remote

islands of the South Seas where for the most

part white men are only represented by a rare

occasional trader or missionary. The whole of

Captain Cayley-Webster's absorbing narrative

is published by Mr. Fisher Unwin. The object

of this article is to show the dangers and dififi-

culties attending travel in these islands. It seems that when

Captain Cayl ey-

Webster was in New

Britain the few white

people there were

experiencing a great

deal of trouble from

the natives, and it

was only when a

man-o-war appeared

on the scene, and

some bluejackets

had been marched

into the interior to

sma.sh up the villages,

that the whites were

left unmolested.

Now, the cause of

all this trouble was

very curious. It

seems that one of

the natives had in- duced his people to

fight by offering for

sale a magic sub- stance which should

render their bodies

bullet-proof. He

pres.sed his wares

assiduously, saying,

"Let us kill the

white men and live;

in their houses."

CAPTAIN- H. CAYLEV-WEBSTER.

From a Plwto. by Russell i^ Sons.

He was a born showman, that man. " To prove that his stuff was genuine," says Captain Cayley-Webster, " he painted someone with his mixture, and after holding up a bullet, sub- stituted for it a berry not unlike it in appear- ance, and inserting it into the muzzle of an old gun, fired at the man, of course without injuring him. By this means he collected many hundreds of pounds' worth of ' dewarra ' (native money), and had it not been for the timely arrival of the war-ship he might still be doing a good trade."

And yet in this remote region there w u r e not only English men to be found, but English ladies as well.

" Mrs. Parkinson took me for many excursions into the interior, and on one occasion to the village of a very influential chief, a" hoary - headed old scoundrel, who had the deaths of many people on his con- science — if he had such a thing — and was one of the most ferocious cannibals in that part of the country. This man was holding a great festivity, and the village, as I ap- proached it, resem- bled somewhat a large country fair. Huge chains of various coloured crotons and flowers strung together

A XATCRALIST IN CANNIBAL- LAND.

33

hung from tree to tree, the trunks of which were encircled by garlands of beautiful creepers. Upwards of 3,000 natives were assembled from all parts, and many hundreds of them were covered with leaves, which, together with their paint and their enormous feather head-dresses, imparted to them a most imposing, but at the same time wild, appearance. The whole spectacle was quite the most unique 1 had witnessed in the country.

" The performers themselves were all as- sembled, as it were, behind the scenes : a large screen of ferns and flowers had been erected for the purpose. At the sound of the tom-tom each tribe in its turn came forward and per- formed its dance, and with their fierce noises

ance which was being enacted in front of them. On the other side were the men, chewing their betel-nut and applauding the various performers as they appeared on the scene. In the centre was erected an enormous screen, about 40ft. in height, on which were hung countless rolls of 'dewarra,' each coil being worth ^^25 in English money. This ' dewarra,' which is the native money of New Britain, is comprised of a par- ticular kind of small shell, resembling the cowrie. These are bored and strung together on narrow strips of cane. It is very much sought after by the natives, as with it they purchase their wives, their slaves, pigs, and in fact all articles of trade. A fathom of this shell-money is worth 2s., and when 250 fathoms are gathered together they

Front d\

A NATIVE UANCE IN NEW BRITAIN.

{I'iiOtO.

and many extraordinary gyrations, one could not help but experience a feeling of awe. The dance is the private property of the chief of each village, who either designs it himself or purchases it from some neighbouring warrior.

"On the one side were the women and children of the many different villages, squatting, as none but natives can squat, on their hams — indulging, probably, in the latest village gossip ; but not one of them, as far as I could see, exhibiting the slightest interest in the perform-

Vol. iiU— 5.

are formed into a coil very skilfully laced up with cane or rattan, giving it the appearance of a huge lifebuoy. On the screen were also hung innumerable ornaments and trophies, such as skulls of vanquished enemies, spears, etc."

Captain Cayley - Webster was frequently cautioned never to go anywhere without his revolver in his hand. Head-hunting raids were constantly being organized, and the Captain himself was an eye-witness of one great expedition which captured more than sixty gruesome trophies in the shape of human heads.

34

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

These were immediately smoke-dried and preserved in the temple or Tambu- house.

The next photo. \vc repro- duce shows Captain Cayley- Webster and his native hunters. We will let him continue his story : —

" The day before we left 1 took the boat and one or two natives with me to an island some few miles distant in the hope of obtaining particular species of lepidoptera, which I knew to exist there. On arriving at the village, which was situated a few yards up from the beach and densely surrounded by cocoanut trees, I looked in vain for the in- habitant.s, who had not put in an appearance, as they usually do on the landing of a stranger. This augured of evil, as the native is in the habit of remaining inside his house on the arrival of any person he does not wish to see. I took very little notice of this, as I had a g'jn and revolver with me, but left two boys with the boat with distinct instructions not to leave it under any circum- stances.

" Returning after an hour or two spent in the forest with the object of my visit safely stowed away, I found all the men of the village assem- bled together in the council-house — at least a hundred in number — apparently much excited and gesticulating wildly. On perceiving me they all pointed at me, and at the same time cast by no means friendly glances in my direction. I sauntered directly u[) to the chief, and, slapping him on the back, offered him a cigar, and at the same time indicated that I required some cocoanuts to drink, and after some hesitation and delay they were brought. Knowing quite well that they would not attack me from the front, I placed my back against a tree before quenching my thirst, apparently quite unconcerned, although I was well aware of the dangerous position in which I was. Again walking up to the chief I shook him by the hand, and turning away, walked slowly down to the beach without turning my face from the people, and I was by

FroDi a\

CAPTAIN CAYLEY-WEIiSTER WITH HIS NATIVE HUNTERS.

[t'/toto.

no means sorry to find myself safe in the boat once more. I attributed my safety — and I can but little doubt that I owed my life on this occasion — to the fact that I, apparently inadver- tently, displayed a large revolver as well as the shot-gun which 1 had slung over my shoulder."

Our explorer-naturalist has much to say that is interesting about Dutch New (Guinea, where the natives informed him that "a long way off and high up in the mountains " the Arfours, or wild men, were to be found. Accordingly he sent four men as ambassadors to these strange people ; but his messengers, after proceeding a mile or so, were compelled to return to the coast owing to the terrible man-traps that lay in their path at every stride.

" These traps, which are set by the Arfours to prevent enemies approaching their mountain

A NATURALIST IN CANNIBAL- LAND.

35

iXt

^-

m

ETNA BAY, THE SCKNK (IK THE FIGHT WITH THE CANNIBALS.

From Captain Cayley-Wehster's cnun Sketch-Book.

that all the natives had their teeth sharpened, which was a pretty sure sign of cannibalism. For a time these natives were collecting natural history specimens for our ex- plorer in the most inno- cent manner, but that the)'' had had their eye upon him as a prospective dinner will be evident from the determined on- slaught they made on the jith of August, 1895.

" My early fears, which I had formed owing to their sharpened teeth, were indeed realized. Early on this morning two of my crew went on shore as usual to shoot, and after breakfast the butterfly collectors were taken in the whale-boat by my boatswain, John- ston, and one of the sailors, round a point about a mile distant, where there was a very good river, on the banks of which thev told me

retreat, consist of small spikes of iron -wood, about loin. long, and steeped in the juice of some poisonous plant. They are firmly embedded in the ground with the e.xception of two or three inches, which are left at an angle of forty - five degrees and pointing towards the sea - coast. These are placed in the native tracks a few feet apart and expertly hidden by twigs or leaves, but on anyone walking upon them they penetrate right through the foot, being so finely pointed."

It was at Etna Bav, New Guinea, that Captain Cayley-Webster met with his most exciting experi- ence. Here he noticed

£^j;;

<>yjci

\ .-.

^c^.V— ^u,,.^^„\

THE HOME OF CAPTAIN CAVI.EV-WEI'STEK S WOULU-BE MURDEKEKS.

From /lis own Sketch-Book.

36

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

they had seen many fine butterflies the day before.

"Shortly after they started a very large canoe, containing about twenty-five people, came alongside, and all its occupants came on deck, including one old woman, who brought with her a child, which she was very anxious for me to purchase. Their manner was even more friendly than usual, and through this I then, for the first time, suspected hostile inten- tions ; and so, taking a large knife, with a blade about i5in. in length, from a man who was

•A*.

TIIK SCr.MC OF THE MLKDERS OK JOHNSTON AND SAM

/■'rem Captain Cay/ey-lVebster s mvn Skelch-Book.

sitting on the taffrail close to the back of my chair, I told the captain to keep a good look- out.

" It is my firm belief that this act saved my life. The natives, evidently observing my suspicions, commenced talking very excitedly among themselves, and I must say that the boat, which by now had had ample time to return, and was not forthcoming, caused me very much anxiety— so much so, that I was on the point of sending someone after it, when I observed what I at first took to be the boat, but afterwards found was a large canoe, returning from round the point; and had I known then that its coming heralded the accomplishment of their bloody deed, not one man, woman, or child of those twenty five on board the yacht should

have lived to reach the shore. Seeing, then, that their own mission, which had evidently been to murder us and seize the ship, had proved futile, they at once departed, and not a m.oment too soon for them, for about a quarter of an hour afterwards 'Jimmy,' one of the two hunters who had started at daybreak in the morning, was observed rushing down to the beach and entering the water. I shouted to him to knov/ the reason, when he called out, ' Fire the big gun ; Lennel has been killed.' " At that moment showers of arrows and

spears were seen whizzing through the air over his head as he swam out to the ship, but, fortunately, not one struck him. I then brought the Krupp gun I had mounted on deck to bear upon the beach, and by its assist- ance kept back the swarming natives from following him, and a few minutes afterwards he reached the ship in safety. He told me that he and Lennel were just returning from the bush with a number of Para- dise birds — the result of tlieir morning's work — and were sitting down in front of the village, drinking the cocoanuls the natives had given tliem, when he suddenly saw a man raise a native axe and strike Lennel across the neck from behind. The poor man, he said, sank without a murmur. He then ran back again into the forest, but was so hard pressed by the over- whelming numbers tliat he doubled back to the beach and swam for his life.

" I was obliged to keep up a continuous and deadly fire for about ten minutes, to prevent the p"ople from hauling up their canoes, which now began to float off the shore with the rising tide. " About two o'clock Rangoon, one of the butterfly boys, was seen to run out of the forest and push a canoe into the water. He also reached the ship without any injury. Rangoon said that my men, who had taken him with the others in the boat in the morning, had been attacked by swarms of natives, but he had rushed off into the jungle and thus escaped ; that there were hundreds of natives running back-

A NATURALIST IN CANNIBAL- LAND.

37

wards and forwards in the forest filled with excitement. About an hour later I saw two more of my men creeping through the man- groves a few hundred yards north of the village, and making for a canoe which was tied up close by, but the natives discovered them a few seconds before they reached it and attacked them in a most ferocious manner, only running away after I had fired several rounds of the Krupp gun over their heads. A few minutes later these two men were safely on board, and I could not but be amused at the plucky way in which one of them had stuck to his butterfly net all the time, especially when he told me that he could have reached the canoe much quicker had he not had it in his hand. They informed me that when the boat was attacked they ran away, as they were unarmed, but that Johnston, Sam, and Abdullah, the Macassar man, were all together.

"The canoes which lined the beach opposite the village had by this lime all floated off with the rising tide, the natives being prevented from securing them by the continuous fire from the Krupp gun. I therefore sent out some men with axes, who scuttled about forty canoes, which were to be seen floating in the bay in every direction. This act enraged the natives to such an extent that other canoes, overcrowded with people, sprang out of the mangroves from every point, and simultaneously made a desperate attack upon us. These canoes, some sixty or seventy in number, containing in all about three hundred people, were kept at bay for a considerable time, and finding evidently that it was an impossibility to secure the prize they so much coveted, they divided and disap- peared, doing us but very little injury. The bay presented by this time a gruesome spectacle : the wreckage of destroyed canoes, bows and arrows, and many other articles of the enemy's paraphernalia were to be seen floating in all directions. The noise of the tom-toms could be heard sending out their weird and dismal sounds from range to range ; dusky objects could be seen skimming across a little open patch or creeping through the undergrowth near the water's edge all round us ; and it reflects great credit upon the remains of my small but plucky crew that so large a force on the shore was unable to approach and capture the ship.

" There was not a breath of air to enable us to move, and the sun had nearly set ; nevertheless I weighed anchor and dropped down in the direction 1 had sent the boat in that morning, to endeavour to find out something of the three missing men. I fired a rifle at regular intervals on the way to enable them to know the ship's

position, although I had but little nope of their being then alive.

"At lo p.m. we again let go the anchor, and about half an hour later I perceived, by the phosphorescent disturbance of the water, that something was coming towards the ship. In response to my incjuiry I heard the faint word 'Cowan ' (Malay for friend), and knew at once it must be Abdullah, and very soon managed to get him on board. It appeared that he had hidden in the jungle until long after dark, and then when he heard the chain running through the hawse-pipe he knew that the ship was again at anchor. So making his way some mile or two to windward along the coast he had cut a spar, taken off his clothes, and struck out for the centre of the bay, knowing that a very strong current at the time would carry him down to the yacht. Had he started even fifty yards lower down the current would have swept him past the ship without ever reaching it, and we should never have seen or heard of

mm agam.

" As it was he arrived on board in a terribly exhausted condition, with his feet all cut and bleeding, and his body scratched to pieces from the prickly undergrowth he had been obliged to penetrate, as the natives had so hotly pursued him, the most persistent being a man and a boy, both of whom he had killed with his kris.

" My worst fears were now realized, for he told me Johnston and Sam were both dead. On landing in the morning, he told us, the boat had been hauled up on the beach, and they had all sat under a cocoanut tree. Suddenly they were surprised by some hundred natives rushing out of the forest and attacking them, whereupon they made a bolt for their rifles, which they had foolishly left in the boat, when others in canoes attacked them from the sea. He just had time to see that Sam had been cut in the back and pierced witli arrows, and poor Johnston, my boatswain, had literally been pierced through and through when he ran off to save himself.

" By eleven o'clock that night, by the light of their fires, I could see that the village was full of natives, and from the noise of their drums and tom-toms, and from an observation one of the hunters had made on the shore, I knew only too well the nature of their horrible and repulsive festivity. They had killed three of my men, had captured five rifles and my boat, and I was powerless to avenge these dastardly murders. All through that night and many succeeding ones I never left the deck, for on several occasions these natives, who were the boldest and most ferocious I had ever seen, made desperate attempts to capture the

38

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

vessel, and I am confident that if it had not been for the quick-firing Krupp the yacht would have passed into other hands, and these words never have been written."

Captain Cayley-AVebster soon after this con- tinued liis journey past Normandy Island, a large island belonging to the D'Entrecasteaux group, and shortly afterwards sighted Cape St. (jeorge, which lies at the extreme south of New Ireland.

" Beating up St. George's Channel against considerable head winds and currents, it was not until a week later that I arrived at Herbertsoh, which is the seat of German Government in this archipelago. After a short halt I sailed on to Ralum, where I met some old friends. A few days after my arrival I promised the natives to show them some conjuring and sleight-of-hand tricks. On the

' taboran,' who came in a ship and made mango trees grow before their eyes and fire come out of his mouth, will be talked of as one of the wonders of their country, and I daresay with much exaggeration."

By the way, it is very interesting to note here that many explorers learn a few conjuring tricks before they leave home, and look upon this accomplishment as a valuable part of their outfit. And well they may. An ability to " astonish the natives " has more than once saved a white explorer's Ijfe in the wilds.

One of the most curious sights that Captain Cayley - Webster witnessed was the Duk-Duk dance, which is represented in the photo, at the top of the next page. We give the explorer's own account of this extraordinary ceremony : —

"The Duk-Duk, for that is the name it

i-.ii i.M. i-A', i,i-.v-\\ki;M } I; (.P.Ls a CUNJLKI.XL. EMEKTA1.\.MI;.NT io Till; NATIVES,

day fi.xed, from daylight in the morning natives flocked down from all parts of the interior and from many miles along the coast to witness the performance, and I was afterwards held in great awe and veneration by everyone I came across. No matter how simple tlie tricks, the natives were open-mouthed jn their wonder, and that day earned for me the title of ' taboran ' (devil) throughout the whole of New Britain, and with- out a doubt a hundred years hence the

goes by, is an interesting institution, originally emanating from this group of i.slands. Many hundreds of years ago it was invented by a celebrated chief here, as a form of native police. At the outset, men who had misbehaved them- selves in the principal village, and were con- sequently debarred from getting food there, used to cover themselves with leaves, worked into weird and strange shapes, and repair to the neighbouring villages, and on their terrifying

A NATURALIST IN CANNIliM, - LAN 1).

39

Front a]

THE EXTRAORDINARY UUK-DUK DANCE.

\Fhoto

the people to such an extent, they willingly gave them food in order to get rid of them. This costume proved so successful in working upon the fears and superstitions of the natives that eventually the chiefs arrogated to themselves the right of clothing a kind of police in this manner, and any of their enemies were thus hunted down by the Duk-Duk, who could and did kill anyone with im[)unity. Any woman looking upon the l)ukT)uk was immediately put to death, and even down to the present day upon the faintest sign of the approach of this dreadful apparition the women all fly in terror and bury themselves in the densest jungle possible."

Quite apart from the greater and more obvious perils of his splendid journey, Captain Cayley- Webster frccjuently encountered unpleasant- nesses which no amount of care and foresight could prevent. The following, for example, is perhaps one of the explorer's most curious experiences.

" On one occasion a native brought me a small fish on his spear point, saying in pidjin English

'That fellar he savey too much— he ki ki along o' me plenty, me die finish"; meaning thereby that tne fish was an artful customer, and if bitten by him I should die. Placing it in a bottle of spirit I unfortunately touchrd one of the spiky fins while pressing in the cork. Immediately I felt an electric shock run u[) my arm and one drop of blood appeared on my finger. Rushing to the veranda I at once procured brandy and ammonia, in which I bathed my injured hand, but in an in- credibly short space of time I became in- sensible, and had it not been for the timely arrival of the captain of a recruiting schooner then lying off the island, I should probably never have recovered. The captain at once proceeded to administer brandy in enormous doses, with the result that after some time I recovered consciousness. He then walked me up and down, although feeling dead-beat, for many hours, continually dosing me with brandy until the poison was conquered. I was, how- ever, confined to my bed for ten days, a severe attack of fever supervening."

J inkers and J inhering.

By Ras de S. Magnussen.

A curious contribution from Western New South whole houses, public buildings, and even towns are

by teams of oxe

HE illustrations accompanying this article give an idea of how house- shifting is carried out on the faraway JJarrier, and will no doubt be a I)erfect revelation to the ordinary person to whom house-moving is a wretchedly prosaic business involving much discomfort and inconvenience. The Barrier is a wide stretch of country in ^Vestern New South Wales, near the South Australian border, where a goodly portion of the silver of the world comes from. At one time Silverton was the head centre of the district. That was in the days when the mines of Day Uream, Thackaringa, Purna- moota, and the Apollyon A^alley were in active operation. But the scene of work shifted in time to the far-famed Broken Hill, one of the wonders of the nineteenth century, and there it stayed — and is likely to remain for several generations to come. One of the mines on the field, the Broken Hill Proprietary, has dis- tributed among its shareholders over ;^9,ooo,ooo

Wales, showing by means of photographs how moved on wheels and drawn to their destination n and horses.

imports and exports are second only in annual value to those of Sydney itself, the capital ot the Mother Colony of ):he Australias. In days gone by, of course — in the days of " rushes " and " booms " — house-removing was much more frequent than to-day ; and maybe a few years hence will see the " jinker " regarded as a prehistoric institution. For Broken Hill has proved that it has " come to stay.''

Nearly the whole of the now almost deserted town of Silverton, once a remarkably busy city, was jinkered to Broken Hill, a distance of eighteen to twenty miles— a unique instance,

I should s

ay>

of a town bein" shifted

house by house. And the remarkable photo- graph reproduced on this page gives an excellent idea of how this town removal was conducted. Here we see a large general store which has just reached the famous silver city of Broken Hill, after having been transported from Silverton by easy — very easy — stages. Observe the great stiing of fine bullocks hitched on to

LAKCE STOKE REMOVED BODILY NEARLY TWENTY MILES HY A TEAM OF BULLOCKS.

From a Photo, by A. F. Pincowhe, Broken Hill.

in dividends and bonuses, and has enough ore /;/ si^ht now to last at least twenty or twenty- five years.

Broken Hill buildings are — or were — mainly of wood and galvanized iron, so constructed for convenience of removal. I say were — for Broken Hill is rapidly growing out of the wood and iron into the brick and stone age. How- ever, the scenes depicted in our photographs are common enough even to-day, although the town has a population of over 26,000, and its

the jinker on which the house rests. Mr. A. F. Pincombe, we note, was on this occasion mover- in-ordinary and jinker plenipotentiary.

Both horse and bullock teams are utiHzed as the drawing-power of the jinker. Either style of team, however, provides but a slow method of progression.

The store seen in the foregoing photo, measured 42ft. by 46ft. by 20ft. high, and there were thirty-eight head of bullocks harnessed to the jinker. Notwithstanding this, however, it took

.TINKERS AND JINKERING.

41

three weeks to a day to travel from point to point of the twenty miles. The roads, it is true, were heavy and boggy, as the result of recent rains, and certain stretches of ground it was almost impossible to traverse. On more than one day the building was not hauled more than a hundred yards in the twenty - four hours. Another structure I wot of — a private residence — removed from one part of Broken Hill to another, only a distance of two miles, was on the road for three days, and

well-bred jinker. Said Mr. A. F. Pincombe (the chief jinker-owner of Broken Hill) to the writer : " I have jinkered for fourteen years, and only once had I a pane of glass smashed ; and even then it was a small boy who threw a stone and broke the pane deliberately." The origin of the jinker is wrapped in Australian mystery. Bendigo, the famous Victorian gold-field, claims to have developed the inventor, and no one so far has troubled to dispute the claim. So Bendigo will probably go down to posterity (if

-— ^"^ ^-i^:^ j>i-»-«.-.-^

'^^■-mra-

HOUSE-MOVING IN BROKEN HILL. A PRIVATE RESIDENCE IJEING SHIKTED.

Front a Photograph.

during transit cost the jinker four new sets of wheels. The house seen in our second photo- graph measured 36ft. by 30ft., and was four days being drawn from Round Hill to Broken Hill, a distance of five and a half miles.

But what is a jinker? Well, it is an ugly- looking, bulky, low, triangular conveyance^ very like a pair of shear-legs on wheels. The jinkers, like all other vehicles, run in various sizes, proportionate to the bulk and weight of the building they are to transport. We will suppose a house is to be removed. Well, most of the houses are— or were — built on a level with the ground, expressly to facilitate possible shifting. The house to be jinkered is first raised from its foundation usually by means of what are known as " German timber-jacks." When it is lifted sufficiently high, say from I Bin. to 3ft. from the ground, the jinker is backed under it, and the hou.se is then let down, after which it is ready for transport any- where— after, of course, the building has been braced to the jinker. The great advantage of the jinker is this : it does not jolt the building. We will suppose that a wheel of the jinker falls into a rut, or becomes bogged. In that case the whole affair at once " gives " in a tilt, each section bearing an equal strain. A waggon (although used sometimes for very small shanties) shakes and rolls, and is apt to break every pane of glass in the windows. There is no such risk with a properly conducted and

Vol. iii.— 6.

history worries its head in the matter at all) as the birthplace of one of the awkwardest and yet most convenient vehicles in Australian use.

The township of Round Hil!, like Silverton, was moved almost bodily into the newer town, until to-day there are not half-a-dozen houses where once there were hundreds. 'I'he locality was prospected, and was a failure; so the residents turned in the direction of success, taking their houses with them after the manner of snails. And when the rate of progression is considered the simile becomes peculiarly apt.

The next photograph reproduced shows a public school which was shifted bodily to the Silver City, when the children of Round Hill were too few to warrant its retention in that deserted town. It was placed in position at North Broken Hill, and is to this day one of the buildings in which the young of the district receive their education. Horses, it will be observed, are the motive power in this case. There were forty-five fine animals harnessed at a time to this temple of learning, but the heavy roads proved such a strain on some of them that they " knocked under," so that altogether sixty-one horses were necessary to do the haul- ing. And these sixty-one took seven days to do their work. The dimensions of the school- house were (over all) 45ft. by 30ft., whilst its weight was about twenty-five tons. This was, by the way, the heaviest building ever shifted on a Broken Hill jinker.

42

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

"the progress of education" — A PUBLIC SCHOOL BEING "jli\t:fcKtl)' (WtlGHi 25 To^.s).

From a Photo, by Devon Photo. Company, Bfoken Hill.

The shifting of the Salvation Army barracks shown in our next illustration was one of the most ra[)id acts of jinker removal on Barrier record. The building, an awkward structure to handle (dimensions, 56ft. by 22ft., and 24ft. high), was at Silverton on a Saturday afternoon. It was first of all hoisted on to a vehicle drawn by thirty-eight bullocks (the cattle being under the control of four drivers), and that same after- noon was dropped into position at South Broken Hill in good time to allow of its being repaired and used for celebration purposes on the fuUowii.g \Vednesday evening.

But not alone are empty houses and public buildings carried from place to place. Often — and this is where much of the convenience of jinkering comes in — dwelling-houses are shifted /lolus bolus — furniture and all, the confident haiisfraii not even troubling to remove the cups and jugs from the dresser-pegs. More than a few times, too, when folk have not been pressed for time, the whole family of the owner has remained indoors during transport, just as if the building were {[uietly resting on its own foundations. Certainly a novel experience this, and a pleasant, but in no wise an exag- geration. Another remarkable in- stance of the value of the jinker is shown when a house is to be sold. Then it may be jacked on to the three - cornered skeleton waggon and carried direct to the auction- mart, where it is submitted to the hammer in exactly

the same fashion as a second-hand table or a bale of dress-goods, which irresistibly suggests Mahomet and the mountain. There is this advantage in such a method, that an intending buyer hasn't to walk a mile and a half on a day when the thermometer is 1 1 6deg. in the shade to inspect a dwelling that may not suit him after all. If he is in town, this prospective landlord, he merely loafs around to the auction and takes his choice from probably half-a-dozen more or less (generally less) beautiful houses that have been lugged there by teams over miles of country.

One may be sarcastic at the expense of some of the buildings seen in these pictures, but let the sarcastically inclined remember that the old order of things is fast disappearing, and that the latter-day class of accommodation is much more in accordance with comfort and wealth Broken Hill of the present day holds buildings as fine in every respect as the ordinary run in the capital cities of the island-continent.

Some of the jinker-pictures are loaned to the magazine by Mr. Pincombe, who lays claim to having shifted two-thirds of the townshijjs of Silverton and Round Hill to Ikoken Hill.

SALVAUuN AkiMV BAKKACKS BEING KEMDVEU BY THIKTY-EIGHT BULLuCKS.

From a P hotoi;raJ>h,

My Klondike Mission.

Bv Mrs. Lilian Agnks Oliver.

How a plucky Chicago lady braved the rigours of the fearful journey to Arctic Klondike, solely in order to get enough money to place her invalid husband above want. She went alone, and wrote the following vivid letters home to her husband. With portraits and photo- graphs of the places.

HAD often asked myself during my married life, why was it I was so blessed with such a good husband. I never felt worthy of him, and on look- ing around me, would see so many wives, better than I ever thought I could be, suffering from blighted lives and with "marriage a failure " written all over them. For twelve years my husband had been a great sufferer with his head. Pain would rack and torture him, until he would hardly know what he was doing, and it caused an entire loss of sleep. The doctor was called, and he pre- scribed a mixture of bromide of potassium and hydrate of chloral. Since that fatal first dose my husband has not known one hour's natural sleep, having to take from one and a half to, in bad cases, six tea-spoonfuls. Added to this, he became aflflicted with loco- motor ataxy — a form of creep- ing paralysis. So my readers will understand that my poor husband's lot was not a happy one.

He kept right along at work, though, the doctor advising it, and saying it would keep him from dwelling on his condition. I gave up all society and [jlca- sures to stay at home and minister to his ha[){)iness and comfort, until at length all my friends deserted me, thinking that, because we did not return their calls, they were not wanted. I was, therefore, left alone to care for my sick husband ; and a lonely life it was. Years flew by, and he was not getting better, giving me heartaches to watch him bravely bearing his suffering. Once or twice he told me he would end his misery if it were not for leaving me alone in the world ; for I am the last of a small family, with not even a remote cousin. We had not much in worldly goods, but my husband had a fair salary on which we lived. The future looked dark — so dark that I did not dare to look into its mysteries, until one day I was seized with gold fever, brought on by a visit from a friend who had been connected with

.MK.S. LII.I.-^.\ ACNIiS lU.UKk.

From a Photo, by IJettshel Photo, and Portrait Co., Chicago.

courageous

milling properties all his life. This gentleman told us, as he and my husband sat smoking their after-dinner cigars — that he intended to go to Klondike next year.

That night I got no sleep — thinking, thinking — until I formed a plan to accompany these people (for there were to be several in the party) to the frozen North. I fancied I saw how I could save a precious life. I dreamed of rich finds ; and bags of gold haunted me all day and at night troubled my rest. I saw in my mind's eye the vision of a proud wife bearing home to a long- suffering man the wherewithal to take him away from dreary toil and give his tired brain a rest. In fancy we were taking a trip around the world ; I was watching for the colour to come back to cheeks that had long been a stranger to it ; I saw fire come to the eye grown dim ; elasticity to steps grown weak ; and happiness to both of us.

I could not keep this deter- mination to myself long, but ere I spoke I resolved to write to our friend asking permission to accompany his party to the gold-fields. In due time I received a letter from the gentleman (he was evidently inclined to take mine as a joke) saying that as he knew me to be a woman of good health — cool - headed and he would undertake the trust, promising also help and support from the whole [)arty. Armed with this letter I told my husband of my intentions.

He looked at me in pity, thinking I had the gold fever so badly that it had turned my brain. lUit I worked on him from August until the following March for consent, and while he did not give it in words, his silence gave consent. He fell into the way of discussing my plans, and thus tacitly consented. The one thing I feared was his health, and that he might not be able to hold his position for two years more. So, going to the official heads of the company he worked for, I pleaded for him, asking them to be kind

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THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

to my husband for my sake, and bear with him in all his faults (he had made several bad mistakes through his head troubles) and try to retain him until my return.

They promised to do what I asked. Then I went to our family doctor and gave him a paper written and signed by us both — giving him power of attorney to administer to my husband's comforts in my absence, making over certain money to be spent for his maintenance until I could care for him ; this in case of a breakdown whilst I was away.

I had got together a fine outfit, and felt that, come what might, I would not suffer from the cold. Everything seemed to work smoothly. The • time was drawing near — / '

only two weeks more — when one day I received a letter that positively stunned me. Our friend Kt;

had written that he had i\

not been successful in dis- posing of his property, and would therefore be obliged to give up his trip north. If a bolt had fallen from y^Li

the sky I could not have J7»

felt more crushed. Here was I, with all my outfit bought, left, after all these months of fever and work, either to give up the dream of my life or go alone ; for the rest of the party lacked courage after our leader backed out. " I will not be treated this way," I said to myself, " but I will go alone." This was another battle to be fought with my husband, and I came out victor.

The night of parting came. I had braced myself for the final wrench. Oh ! how often have I looked back on that night, and suffered again the pangs of loneliness that passed over me. Friends had come to the depot to help to cheer up my husband and see him home after I had gone.

I stood on the platform of the train that was to bear me to Seattle, looking down on my friends. Even now tears are falling as I com- pare the going to the home-coming. My husband is the last to bid and kiss me good- bye. Holding me in his arms, he calls the blessings of Heaven down on his wife, asking (lod to send her safely back again, and making me promise that, successful or not, I would return in two years, for that was the limit. One more kiss, one more " God bless you," and " All

aboard " was sounded, and the train slowly pulled out of the depot.

I never fully realized until then the herculean task I had undertaken. In the feverish time of preparation, I had no time for thought, and I made a mental resolve that, with God's blessing, I would come back a successful woman. The awful strain I had lived under almost prostrated me for more reasons than one. I was going into this terrible country without sufficient means, and I knew it ; but a brave heart can accomplish much, and I intended to share half I had in order to " grub-stake " some honest man, trusting to finding a rich claim ere my

■W

From d\

MRS. OLIVER IN KLO.NDIKE COSTUME.

[Photo.

small stock of provisions ga^e out. If I had to go short a little, I knew my constitution could stand it.

I will now explain my modus operandi. I knew Seatde to be the gateway to the gold- fields, and that Klondike parties were being made up there every day. If I could meet with the right kind of people, they might be able to place me with a party — perhaps some married couple who would not object to my accompany- ing them.

P2ventually I found a man who advertised himself as "Alaska Guide, and Hunter." Going to him, and telling him what I wished, he told me I could be easily suited, or " fixed," as he called it, but to " place me " rightly seemed a hard task. This guide, however, had a friend whom he thought a great deal of; and I wish to say, in parentheses, that he deserved all the good things that could be said of him. After two months' observation of this noble character, and knjwing he intended to go in to Alaska, I

MY KLONDIKE MISSION.

45

asked him to szuide me into the e;)unt:"v and place me where 1 could helj) myself. He had been all through it a year before, and knew the country well. He agreed to do it, saying 1 deserved all the help and encouragement to be had to accomplish the noble task I had set my- self. \Vell and faithfully did this loyal friend keep his word when he said he would be a brother to me ; and the world would be a better place if it contained more men like Theodore Damstrom.

On comparing our financial condition, nt starting, we stood thus : I had 3oodols., or ^6o ; he, loodols., or ;!{?20 — a small purse for such a terrible journey — besides our respec- tive outfits of tents, etc. On the 27th May, 1898, we started with the good wishes of friends I had made in Seattle, and from now on my readers will hear from me in letter form.

Our first stage was by rail to Vancouver, and from there on we proceeded by steamship.

" Steamship Athenian, June 3rd.

" My Dear Hub, — I received your telegram 10.15 ^'^'^^ night ; if we had left on time, I should have missed it. \\'e were to have left at 5 p.m., but did not until 3 a.m. to-day. The telegram startled me — thinking of danger to yourself. Thank you, dear, for remembering me in the final good-bye. We are running south to Victoria, and this channel reminds me of the St. Lawrence River. We are going like an ocean greyhound, and the work of managing the ship is being done as only the English can do it. Have a cabin to myself, and it is equal to any first - class we have ever travelled on. We are passing islands with mountains on each side, and the scenery is grand. There are forty head of oxen on board that are going in to Alaska to haul freight over the dreadful Dalton trail, and I)e killed on arriving at Dawson, for beef. They are so tame. I've been rubbing their noses, and they watch me as I pass from one to the other. They have comfortable stalls on deck, with straw beds and plenty of hay to eat. Poor things ! how I pity them in their coming suffering. It's blowing fresh, and when on deck I turn up my cape- collar, and tie my cap on my head, .so you know just how I look. There is only one thing wanted, and that is yourself to enjoy this trip with me ; it would do you good, for I know how you enjoy being on a fine ship. The steward said this one belongs to the Union Line, of London, and used to sail between Southampton and the Cape. That will give you an idea of its size. I sent you a list of the provisions that I purchased at Van- couver, B.C., and I find that by purchasing there I save a lot in duty ; it will all be bonded

through free. I paid only $3.50 for freight of provisions on board here, and 580II). of personal goods passed free. The British Customs here charged $4.50 duty on my tent and stove purchased in U.S. So far it's not bad. Approaching Victoria ; very close. Once more take care of yourself, dear hub, and be brave. W'ifie will soon be back and come with the dust (gold). — Your Loving Wife."

" On the Pacific, June 4th.

" Left Victoria on time; lam feeling fine — no sign of sickness, though we are pitching pretty freely. Mountains on the right, and o[KMi sea on ttie left. Sun shines brightly, and porpoises and whales are playing arouiul us on all sides. Stiff breeze, but not cold. Half of the passengers laid up for repairs, and the rest look green around the mouth. As I passed a group of men on the poop-deck I heard the remark, 'There is a healthy woman.' My, I wish my old hul) was here to enjoy this. We shall arrive at Wrangle this evening and stay awhile ; there is considerable stuff to put off, and I shall get a chance to mail one more letter this side of Dyea. AVe are now on Hcgate Strait. (See map)."

"June 5th.

" A little foggy. Did not reach Wrangle last night ; soon be there now. As we near the north it gets lighter at night, 10.30 being as light as day. Very rough last night, and more passengers missing this morning from the break- fast table. Horses and cattle were sick ; even the cabin cat forgot to 'mew.' I won't close, because I shall hunt for another flower at Wrangle."

"Wrangle, 7.30 p.m.

"Just arrived. Going up town to see the totem poles and Indian village. Customs officers on board examining baggage. I am bonded through, and am, therefore, exempt. All well. Good-bye."

"June 7th.

" Left on time this morning, and expect to reach Dyea in the morning. I mailed paper from Wrangle. It's published only once a week. U'rangle is an awful place, 'i'he board side- walks are built up out of the mud about 5ft., and you can almost touch the shanties on botii sides. The Indians are a frightfully dirty lot, and they crowd round to sell their wares — baskets and carvings. We have kept the passage on the inside of the islands after leaving the above, and will do so until we reach Dyea. I shall have to show my U.S. purchase papers at Skagway. We leave the ship on a lighter, from thence to Dyea, the tide flats not permitting so large a boat to enter. I am, indeed, thankful I changed my mind about

46

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

^»r

mm

. ;>■ OF WRANGLE, ALASKA.

iPhoto.

going the Stickeen route. You remember that Wrangle is the gateway to it ; and there were 500 disgusted men who had turned back from this route, telling of the frightful hardships to man and beast. These men are going in over the Chilcoot Pass. The freighters were asking them Soodols. a ton to carry their goods 150 miles, from Glenora to Lake Teslin. They had been asking loodols. Think of this, and then you will see that my guide was a wise man for not allowing me to choose that route, as I had originally intended."

"June 8th, 8.30 a.m.

"Just arrived at Skagway — a wild place nest- ling at the foot of mountains and at the end of water navigation. There are a lot of poor dead horses lying on the rocks, thrown up by the tide. Only a few of many (they say three thousand) along the cruel White Pass. I am finishing this letter on the wall of the post-office. Place belter than I expected and everything quiet, though .said to be run by gamblers and ' toughs.' Leave at 12 p.m. (Iiigh tide) on lighter for Dyea." "Canyon City (seven miles from Dyea),

"June nth.

" Here I am, O.K., and will try to tell you of some of my experiences. It seems to me like a dream. The last two days at Dyea were something awful ; hot is no name for it. The sand burnt our feet so that we could not venture out. We took to the trail (my first walk) at 7 p.m., hoping to reach the place by 12. I am not gifted enough to tell you of the awful grandeur of my first day's walk on the bed of the river, between Dyea and this place. The river crossed our paths fourteen times. I crossed on a fallen tree once, waded four times, and was carried across nine times. We walked on and on, and did not see anything of the above camp, so I had to call a halt. I had started with the determination of keeping my troubles to myself, but I reckoned without my host.

My feet were too blistered to go far- ther. "We had had a terrible walk four miles over sharp rocks, and I was in great pain every step ^ I took. I wanted to lie down and rest, but was afraid of bears ; for they had been seen on this part of the trail. At length, becoming too tired to resist, I lay down by the side of the trail and took in the situation. Oh, what a night ! Twelve o'clock, and as light as noon. We are still on the river bottom. On one side of the mountains a roaring, fiery furnace has been burning for days. It had just passed over Can3'on City, burning a great deal of it, and devouring all the timber in its wake. As it burnt, there were sounds like the cracking of artillery caused by the immense heat splitting the huge boulders and sending them rolling down the mountain side over 4,000ft. Down the mountain on the left came tumbling and roaring a great waterfall, caused by the melting snow and ice from the glaciers above. I could not help wishing that these two elements might be brought together — the water to extinguish the fire. Above all this, in a tree near me, a robin sang all night. The little fellow was fooled by the light, and took night for day. After a while tired nature got the better of me and I fell asleep. Don't know how long I had slept, when I was startled by a noise near by, and, hearing the guide jump up, concluded the bears had come. Without

From ,

THE BROADWAY, SKAGWAY,

\Plwto.

MY KLONDIKE MISSION.

47

waiting to ascertain, I set up a yell that would have wakened the dead ; and on jumping up was in time to see a horse shying and trying to throw its rider. No wonder : I had tied a large towel round my head to keep those dreadful mosquitoes from eating me up, and it was this white thing popping up out of the bush, accom- panied by the scream, tliat had startled the poor horse ; and after he had taken a good look at me he felt better. I hear nothing now but ' bears.' We arose soon after, and were surprised to find we had just been on the outskirts of Canyon City all the while. We found an eating and bunk-house, and rested till after sundown ; then started at 8 p.m. for Sheep Camp, seven miles away. I will finish this and mail at next stop. Will also inclose expenses and cost of freight so far. By-bye."

"Sheep Camp, June 12th. " From the last stopping-place to here has been over a terrible trail — through heavy woods, along steep, rocky, and often boggy h'Msides, broken by several deep gullies. The ascent was abrupt in places, and over huge masses of fallen rock, or steep, slippery surfaces of rock in places. A'^ery tired, we arrived here at 11.30p.m., and what do you think? I s]ept on a /eaf/ier bed, made u[) in bunk fashion — quite a surprise to my tired limh.s. This is called Wisconsin House, kept by a lady from that State. This part of the trail I cannot fully describe. Our first part was climbing round the foot of the mountain over which the fire I wrote of had passed, burning away all the trees and brush, making it hard to get a foothold, especially at an angle of 40 degrees. At our feet was flowing a fearful river, boiling and bubbling over huge boulders that had tumbled from the mountains above, and into which was running the melting ice and snow. We crossed this on three logs thrown over for a bridge, and it trembled as we touched it. We then commenced to climb up an abrupt mountain as above, once having to cross a narrow plank over a waterfall and getting drenched with spray. The saddest sight yet met with we saw here — a man, a raving maniac, whistling for imaginary dogs and calling partners, making the mountains echo and re-echo with his awful cry. When he saw us he ran to the edge of the precipice and stood over the river mentioned above, and at a height of 3,000ft. We expected to see him dash himself over, and I guess, if we had followed, he would have done so. Sometime and somewhere, periiaps, a wife would look for his return from the gold-fields, which will, ere this year clo.ses, turn into graves for many of them. We met drivers of pack teams (horses) and told them what we had seen, thinking they would

report it at the camp, and that search parties would come after the maniac ; but they said : ' That's nothing. There's lots of those fellows around, and will be more before the season is ended.' We climbed around, up and down, stopping now and then to admire some piece of exquisite scenery, and finally ended our journey in a mud flat. For that is all Sheep Camp is, surrounded by mountains that are always with us. In front of the window where I am writing is a waterfall, tumbling down in a huge white mass from a glacier in the shape of a cone 5,000ft. above. It makes a grand picture as it empties into the river below and rushes on to the waters of the Pacific Ocean. Oh ! who would live in civiliza- tion when they can surround themselves with such pictures? I step out and breathe this pure, fresh air, fill my lungs, and it makes me stronger, braver, to do and dare. The pure ice water we drink on the table is carried in in buckets. There was a big surprise awaiting us at dinner time. \\'e had the first decent meal since leaving the ship. Here is the bill of fare : Roast beef, steak and onions, macaroni, potatoes, pickles, pudding, and coffee — and only paid 50 cents. My bunk, with feather bed, cost another 5c cents. This is the cheapest I've met with yet. I forgot to mention that after leaving Canyon City the Aerial Railway was with us over the tops of the trees, and It was a strange sight to look up and see a cook-stove, a bale of hay, a canoe, lumber, and other strange things flying by in the baskets in mid-air. They are first carried from Dyea by waggons to Canyon City, and then on the Aerial Railway to the top of the Pass — a distance of about nine miles. The cruelty of man shows itself all along the line, for dead horses lie on all sides of us, and the smell is something frightful. One of our party in advance— for now we are seven — will call out to those in the rear, ' Another horse,' and we hold our noses and run by. Some have fallen down the mountain side a little way, and broken their backs, and the owners had thrown huge boulders on their heads to end their misery — others lie with broken and bleeding legs, with a bullet hole through their heads, and so on. By looking, you can tell how these poor things died. Nowhere on earth is man's selfishness displayed more than on the trail here. They lash and spur their poor horses up the mountains weighted down with heavy packs, and if they stop to take a drink they will get rocks thrown at them, accompanied by curses. Their tired dogs, also carrying perhaps a 5olb. pack, they kick if one stops to rest. How my heart ached for these noble beasts ; and to protect them was but

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THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

to bring down abuse on my own head. I had to shut my eyes and ears, and sadly pass on. Would that I could do something for them at Ottawa — I would plead on my knees for them for protection. There is lying at my feet a beautiful St Bernard. He is looking up at me with his liquid eyes, pleading for my friend- ship. I could write whole chapters in this strain, but it is, to me, too sad a subject. By-bye. \\'\V. write from the other side of the Pass."

/• *('/;/ ((

DKAIJ ANIMALS UN THE SKAliWAV TRAIL.

" Lake Lindermann, June 13th. " Here I am, safe and sound over the much- dreaded Pass. We crossed it at 1.30 a.m. Mon- day, and it was as light as day — our party being the only one in sight. I must plead guilty to being nervous, and was afraid to look back for fear I would fall to the bottom. Imagine a mountain near 4,000ft. high at an angle of 45deg., covered with snow to the depth of about 4ofl., and which, during the day, gets soft, making climbing easier — but at night freezes over, making walking not only hard but fearfully dangerous. I could not get a foot-hold. My rubber boots caused me to slip backwards. The guide went ahead and dug holes with his heels in the ice for me to put my feet into ; I taking hold of his hand and with my other carrying a stick, vrhich I drove down into the snow and held on to. Every now and then I

got so nervous, that I had to sit down on the snow. In this way, after hard work, I finally reached the top, and although it was intensely cold, I was in a profuse perspiration. I then took my first look back.

" The picture will re- main with me when all else is blotted out. Below me I see the river bed, now filled with ice and snow, winding like a serpent back as far as the eye could reach. On either side mountain after mountain, snow - clad and intermixed with peculiar-shaped glaciers. On our left and about a mile and a half from the foot of the Pass is wliere the fatal snow- slide occurred that killed so many this spring. The stillness and solitude of this ice- hound region seem to oppress one, and make me thankful to pass on. The Chilcoot Pass is difTficult and dangerous to those not possessed of steady nerves, for towards the summit there is a sheer ascent of i,oooft., where a slip would cer- tainly be fatal At the actual summit, which for seven or eight miles is bare of trees or bushes, the trail leads through a narrow, rocky gap, and the whole scene is one of the most com-

{I'hoto.

FroDi a Photo. by\ block .made on porcupine hill, skagway trail.

[£•. Hegs.

MY KLONDIKE MISSION.

49

J^viii a Photo, by]

SUMMIT OK THE CHILCOOT PASS

plete desolation. Naked granite rocks rise steeply to snow-cLid mountains on either side. Descending the inland or north slopes is equally bad travelling, largely over wide areas of shat- tered rocks, where the trail may easily be lost. At the top we were met by N.W. policemen to see if we carried anything dutiable. For we are now, and will be until we reach Dawson, in Her Britannic Majesty's domains. At the foot of the summit I am obliged from sheer exhaustion to take my first rest in an objectionable bunk-house. My kind friend watched over me while I slept. The sun was hot as we started at ID a.m., and now I met a new trouble. The sun shining on the snow hurt my eyes ; we had travelled at night heretofore and rested in the day. For fully six miles we waded through soft snow and ice. We are now walking on top of the lake (Crater), and I went through several times up to my waist. This walk was very trying — I had to raise my feet so high out of the snow ere I could place them down again. After this we had more steep climbing, which made a rest very welcome, on seeing a little green moss, free from snow. We reached here Monday ii p.m., and here, thank God, ends my walking. From now on I shall write from the boat — that is, when we get started. Lots

Vol. lii.— 7.

of boat-building and bustle here. Meals idol., and nothing to eat for it. Money's getting scarce, and we must now limit our- selves. Just paid I 2 odols. f o r freight from Dyea to Linder- mann, at the rate of lo cents a pound."

" 1 8th, Saturday.

" Been here

since Monday

waitiniT for our

goods to arrive

— they came last

night. Every-

[/;■. /Ai-i-. thing safe but a

hatchet, and that

we were allowed for when we paid the bill. We

leave to-morrow, if the wind is favourable.'

" Lake Le Barge, June 22nd. " After writing the above we did not leave for four days — could not make up our minds about a boat. Thought we would join others in the purchase of one, making it cheaper for us all. We have found a party, so we start at once.

♦ 1*^

wi^'

SHOWING MODE OF TRAVELLING ON THE CHILCOOT TRAIL.

From a Photo, by E. Hegg.

5°

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

There are seven — three women, four men — and two dogs, with about three tons of freight. Our boat measures 27ft. by 8ft. ^^'e shall be packed pretty tight, and expect to land at night for sleeping. We started down Lake Lindermann in a stiff breeze, and in an hour reached the end, seven miles, where we made our first portage. The boat being emptied, the goods were carried around by waggons, while experts take the boat through the rapids of three-quarters of a mile. On loading up again we ne.xt find ourselves on Lake Bennett.

For portaging around the above we are charged half a cent per pound. The wind staying with us we sail along in fine style, and at 10.30 p.m. land for .supper and the night. A tent is pitched for us '"^v women, and the men roll up in their Ijlankets and sleep on the ground in the brush. Arose at five, cooked breakfast, and start again, still on Lake Bennett, which is twenty-si.x miles long. Now we reach Lake Tagish, and this place holds some terrors for our little craft and crew. We are to pass a place which our guide tells us is called ' Windy Arm,' and has upset many boats. The peculiar formation is caused by the opening of the mountains on both sides of the lake, through which the wind is always blowing, causing ripples and white caps on the water, and making it necessary sometimes to ' lay to ' for days, watching and waiting for a chance to get through. Camp for the night."

" 6.30 a.m. " Passed all right. Got a little wet, but nothing more unless I add a good shake-u[). Wc entered a river with a swift current, and that brought us into Lake Marsh. This we sailed till 11 p.m., when we landed for the night. Arose at 3 a.m., had break- fast, and found the wind had left us, making rowing a necessity. I took a turn at the

oars, being tired of sitting still, the other women following suit ; and we have done it several times since. At Lake Tagish we stopped at the last British station, and had a trying time. The Customs officer came on oui boat, or rather called us in and examined eve\ 'thing on board, looking for tobacco and whisky, I had a pound among my things, but he did not find it. They marked things O.K. and numbered our boat 13,951. Think of it — that number of boats had passed that station this year (and it's only June yet) ; each boat containing from five to

twenty - five per- r sons. Yesterday beat the record for anxiety for us women. At the c n d o f L a k e Marsh the boat has to pass through Grand Canyon, a mile long, where the water dashes through walls of rocks from fifty to a hundred feet high, and about the same in width. Three of the men took the boat, while the other walked with us women, four and a half miles, to meet it at the other end. After passing this, we portaged again. I'hen there was the ' White Horse Rapids ' to pass — a name which many fatal accidents have converted into the 'Miner's Grave.' Our guide was a hero, but tlie two other men in the boat 'got rattled,' and worked against each other, while he alone brought them .safely through. We women sat on the rocks waiting for them to come, one crying — her husband was in the boat — and presently we saw flying towards us our brave guide, standing up with his oar, facing the danger, hat and coat off, and working like a Trojan to keep the boat in the comb of the falls. With one bound it shot over and flew among the rocks, but he guided it into safe water. After that I felt perfectly .safe with that man. AVhile the others were white with fright, he was as calm as a summer sea. Nothing but snags and rocks are everywhere, a fruitful source of danger on this river ; and now, from the rapids downward, scarcely a day passed that we did not see some cairn or wooden cross marking the last resting-place of some drowned pilgrim

i\GK I'.Kl Ui:l-.N l.AKts l.I.N'DEKM ANN AND ■0»l a] BENNETT. [Pho/o.

MY KLONDIKE MISSION.

From a\

SHOOTING JULES CANYON, WHITE HORSE KAI'IDS.

[PJioto.

to the land of gold. Events have crowded so thick and fast upon me that I've lost track of time, but feeling hungry, I think it must be dinner-time. All our watches differ, and I have forgotten the day of the month. Flags are flying on the little boats around us, getting ready for the glorious Fourth of July. Some are displaying the British flags, others the American, and other nationahties are also represented. Some men are trying to shoot ducks, others are singing and hailing each other as they pass. The scene is a lively one.

" Fine morning. Left Lake Le Barge and enter Thirty Mile River. Been saluted by N.W. police on bank, to tell number of boat and telling us to look out for rocks ahead — about seven miles. They take more pains to protect life than they do on the American side ; there is simply nothing done there. If a boat gets lost between Tagish and Le Barge it is known here, as all numbers are taken and com- pared at the other stations. They are then able to tell the names of the people in the missing boats, because they are entered in a book at Tagish with their number. This river is beautiful, with a swift current of eight miles. Sun hot; I am writing under umbrella. Left all snow and ice behind. Birds are singing, ducks flying around, and on both sides of us are growing wild flowers. The sail is down and we are going with the current. One man is steering, and the rest asleep. Rocks ahead. Just passed through an awful time. Came to the rocks we were warned of, and there are wrecks lying all along the shore. A few

moments before we can)e up, a boat -load went to pieces on the rocks. Thank Ocd, we missed it, but we owe it to our guide again. He had been here before. As we fly along, on all sides are wrecks. We have passed seven in a mile. Some have saved their outfits and are drying them on the bank, and some are try- ing to repair their boats. They hail us as we pass — asking how we hap- pened to miss that rock. Now in good water again, with a few more rocks ahead. Passed again, and are now drawing to the end of Thirty Mile — the worst piece of water yet encountered. We are called in again by police at the Hootalinqua River to show papers and again give number ; and they ask, for the first time, if we lost any lives in Thirty Mile. They have had a big list this season. Thank God, we had none to report, but we had passed a number of newly-made graves that told their own story. Reached ' Big Salmon ' River, had agam to report, and had the following added to cur palmers : ' Big Salmon, 29/6/98, A. r. Solly." Fort Selkirk is the next stop, and \i rney V)n't take this paper away I will send it home iVe camp to-night at Little Salmon, but there is no station to report there. Reached above 1 1.30 p.m. Up at four this morning and got started by five. Lewis River, we pull in. There has been a stampede from here, and there is a camp of tents of about 500 men, up the Lewis and Little Salmon ; these men are prospecting, but only a few have struck anything."

"July I St. " Had to run about eight miles farther than we intended last night, because fire had burnt all the timber, and we got into trouble landing. No one hurt, only got wet. The mosquitoes are awful, and the veil I had from Mr. Hickson saved my face, but my hands are a sight. We are now looking forward to 'Five Finger Rapids,' one mile from here, and we have all grown serious. Its another bad piece of water, but no portage, and we will all have to stay in the boat. Five rocks divide the river, and the current makes it dan- gerous to get through them. We are watching the guide's face. It is calm, and he smiles on us

52

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

weak women, telling us it is nothing. ' Here's the Fingers ! ' I shut my eyes, and grip the first thing I lay my hand on. Passed ! Oh, that was awful — we were tossed up like a cork. It lasted about three minutes, but seemed like hours. A Peterborough canoe that was following us got swatffped ; came over side- ways. One more bad place, ' Rink Rapids,' to pass, and I think that is the last of them.

slept dry and warm in my eiderdown sleeping- bag. The rocks stuck in my back, but I am getting used to that. This morn I mixed my fiour, for biscuits, with the Yukon water. First I've made ; been eating hard tack. We had a party of men camping on the same beach last night who dug in the gravel for dust, and. after digging about two feet, they washed the gravel

in their

pans

and showed us women ' seven

hroin a\

FIVE FINGER KAl II

-GKNEKAL VIEW.

[P/wio.

There is a barge alongside with about thirty people on, and some donkeys. One of our men called out, ' You're all right. You have horse power,' and they answered ' Yes — mule power.' Rink Rapids; passed again; all safe. \\"\\\ mail this at Fort Selkirk."

" Pelly River, July 2nd. " I mailed letter yesterday at Selkirk. I will catch same mail at Dawson (i6th). We camped at above last night, but before retiring looked over this old place, which shows the first sign of civilization in the old ruins of Fort Selkirk, with such recent and probably temporary occupa- tion as circumstances may cause. About fifty years ago there was a fight between the white settlers and the Indians, and there are two bury- ing-places where the victims on both sides were buried. \\'e have passed parties of prospectors, digging by the river side. Our men called out, 'Found anything?' They answer, 'A little colour.' 8.30 p.m., going to camp; looks like

rain.

Poured all night.

" 3rd.

Kept dry in tent, and

colours ' — I call it particles of gold. They did not think it worth working. The men are row- ing against a strong wind, and there is a doubt about our reaching Dawson to-morrow (4th). We are about 130 miles from there. Stopped at the mouth of Stewart River for lunch. There is another stampede on. The men have ' cached ' their provisions by building huts up in trees and covering them over with bark. It looks strange as we pull in — like a settlement of peculiar people living up trees. Had a hard time after leaving the above ; a gale sprung up and nearly swamped us. Had to get in, and it was a difficult task."

"July 5th.

" Rained all night ; camped early ; had a hard time finding dry wood to get supper and breakfast. We are about thirty miles from Dawson. Will reach it to-night."

"4.20 p.m.

" \<\ sight of Dawson. I am glad of it. I am cramped, being so long in this little boat — thirteen days. Dawson lies at the foot of a mountain on swampy ground. Boats all along

MV KLONDIKE MISSION.

53

the shore, looking for a kinding-place — poor camping ground so far. Will linish to-morrow."

" 6th.

" Landed at 5.30 p.m. last night. Beat the first boat via St. Michael by four hours. This place is immense, over three miles long and packed with men. W'e camped on a rocky hillside last night, and I am sore all over, trying to find a soft place between rocks to sleep. Just heard of steamer going out : must close to catch it."

"Dawson, July 13th.

" Three letters reached me to-day, and though I have been here a week I've not been able to get my mail. Post-office only opens a few hours

they send out a ' grafter ' to investigate, and if the ' find ' is likely to turn out rich, the unfortunate prospector loses it. Their answer is, ' I am sorry, but that claim was staked before ' ; and the poor man not being allowed to see the books at the re- corder's ofifice, cannot protect himself. These claims are being sold ' under the rose ' to someone that will give an interest in them to parties in power. This is no secret in Klon- dike, and, therefore, no place for the poor man. They charge the mine-owners 10 per cent, on all outputs from mines, and then they can only call the property theirs for a year. Their license, for which they pay lodols., only

J' loiH a rhoto. by

TKYINli TO MAKE A LANDING AT DAWSON CITV.

\La Roche, Scattli:.

a day, and there are hundreds waiting outside. Ladies are being let in by a side door, but the mail-men are slow in sorting, and one has to wait ten days or two weeks ere a mail can be distributed, after arriving. The brutal way these men at the post office speak to the people would cause a lynching on the American side. They treat the men like dogs. Everything is grab here, people having to pay for everything. The miners are holding a meeting to protest against the way they are being treated. If a man stakes a claim he must first take a license, for which he pays lodols. ; or to record a claim, i5dols. That is, if they let him have it. If work is not done within the year, he loses it, and also his right to take up another claim in that district. On recording a claim they will not give an answer to a man for sometimes six weeks. In the meantime,

lasts that time. They pay for a permit to cut wood, for building or burning; i2dols. for permission to cut logs to build a cabin 1 8ft. by 20ft. It is worked out how many logs are required — say sixty — and the miner is told not to take any more. One dollar per cord is charged for green wood, and 50 cents for dry wood, for burning — that is, to cut yourself. Hut if one waits for winter and buys it, they will be charged 6odols. per cord, by private parties. All wood must be rafted down the Yukon, there being none at Dawson. Will quote a few prices. Doctor's charge from 10 to 20 dols. a visit ; a prescription 2ijdols. A neighbour was asked gdols. for putting in the mainspring of a watch. A live chicken brought in on a boat was sold for loodols. Beef idol, to idol. 50 cents per lb. \Vashtubs i2dols., wash-boards 4, flat- irons 4 ; one of the latter brought 6 at auction.

54

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

Butter idol. 50 cents lb. Eggs 3dols. per dozen. Apples, oranges, lemons, same. Can of con- densed milk 75 cents ; potatoes 75 cents per lb., or 5odols. sack of two and a half bushels ; and so on.

" 20th.

".Steamer arrived last night, caused a big commotion. .Someone started the cry : 'Steam- boat,' and it was taken up by every man and passed along the line, waking everyone up. All turned out to see it ; full of passengers. There liust be over 2,000 dogs here, and they fight night and day. Their owners feed them hardly ■it all in the summer, and the poor things go around stealing, making people's life a burden ; for one cannot lay a thing down before some starved dog comes and steals it. They get in under the tents and clean them out. One took a steak out of a neighbour's frying-pan while cooking."

"August 7th.

■ 1 have not done much writing, for two reasons : no mail in and sickness in our camp. Three weeks ago our guide was taken ill with pneumonia that turned into haemorrhage of the lungs, and he lies almost dying. Four or five doctors say he can't live. Our noble guide and friend ; the best man in Dawson ! All the rest of our party have pulled out and left me alone to take care of the sick. I am writing this outside his tent, and not fifty feet away are kneeling twenty old men, on the rocky hillside outside the Catliolic church, with bared heads, listening to the service, for this is Sunday. Tlie scene reminds me of the picture, ''J'he Landing of the Pilgrim Fathers.' The sacred music brings me no comfort, for my heart is heavy, and I ask myself: 'What am I to do?' I tried to get the sick man into the hospital connected with this church, but only those willing and able to pay 5odols. weekly can hope to recover. All is gold dust here. So I am taking care of him alone. I have to carry the water about two blocks, and the wood I am depending upon my neighbours for. When I tell you that when we arrived at Dawson I had only 45 cents left, you will understand I have not much money for doctors or beef-tea, but am doing my best with the stock of provisions I /lave."

" September 4th.

" Friends have found our guide, and have come to me after seven horrible weeks and offer

me assistance. Thank God ! The winter is coming, and we have no place to live in but our tents, and at 6odeg. below zero a tent is a cold habitation. These friends offer to send him out to San P>ancisco, and say if I will go along to care for him they will buy my ticket. He is still bleeding, cannot be moved. Nights are cold and frosty ; rains during the day ; our outlook is poor. The cold nights make the sick man suffer fearfully. Yet I have no way of keeping his tent warm. The wind is too high to take the stove inside ; it would surely burn it down, 'i'hey ask aoodols. pbr month for a log cabin, and I have quoted the price of firewood. Oh ! how dreary everything looks. I get drenched with rain trying to make a little coffee, for the stove is outside my tent."

"September 6th.

" I am terribly afraid that we will be caught in here for the winter, and that means death for the sick man and hardships for me. Poor fellow cannot be moved without great suffering. I have relieved him with ergot of rye, but each haemorrhage seems to last longer than tlie former one. If I thought this poor man had a chance for his life, I would not go out after coming^ here. He was my help, and without him I am useless."

"September i ith.

"Last boat leaves here to-morrow for this winter. Friends will carry my helper to the boat on a stretcher, and I trust he will live through the trying time. W^e look for bad weather in the Behring Sea after we leave St. Michael's — that is, if we do not get frozen in on the Yukon. It's freezing now."

"Sept. 12th.

" Cam.e on board last night ; no ill effects. Start at 12 midnight, and, oh ! how glad and grateful I am to leave this place, where I have gone through so much trouble. I w-ant to, and will, come back to this country though — for there is gold dust for all, and I will yet get some of it. But I never w^ant to see Dawson again. Men are dying here like sheep — and no wonder. I feel that I have a loving husband waiting to welcome me home, whether I am successful or not."

"San Francisco, Oct. 27th.

"Arrived after seven weeks on the way. Mr. Damstrom still lives. His sister met and is taking care of him, and now my journey to and from the great Klondike, for the present, is ended."

Through Pygmy Land.

Kv AbBERT B. Lloyd.

I.

We here present to our readers the personal narrative of a record journey through the land of the Pygmy and Cannibal Tribes of Central Africa. Mr. Lloyd's narrative is illustrated with a remarkable set of photographs taken by himself, the whole being published for the first time, solely and exclu- sively in " The Wide World Magazine."

1' had often occurred to mc that in spite of the very many alarming stories of the fierceness of the Cen- tral African Pygmies, and the wild- ness of the cannibals, it would never- theless be possible to accomplish a journey through their territory with reasonable care, and without an armed escort. At any rate, I made up my mind to attempt it. Having lived for some

Protec-

the Uganda

four and a half years in torato, and during this period having acquired a thorough knowledge of African natives and their language, 1 was not alto- gether ignorant as to the best mode of procedure. Accordingly on the 19th September last year I started into the unknown, and after ten week.s' in- cessant travelling reached the coast and landed in London on Christmas Day.

Toro is a large country to the extreme west of the Uganda Protectorate, reaching to the north almost to the Albert I^ke ; to the south, to the Albert Edward Lake ; and to the west, extend- ing to those most wonder- ful of all Nature's marvels, the Mountains of the Moon.

The capital of Toro, Kavaroli, is a good-sized

town on the eastern slopes of the mountains. The two chief hills upon and around which the capital is built are those occupied by the King Kasagama and by the Protestant Mission of the Church Missionary Society, to which I belong.

The house occupied by myself was built in the ordinary African style, with mud walls and grass roof, but it was extremely comfortable. It contained four good-sized rooms, the doors

* Copyright, 1899, in the United States l.y Albert B. Lloyd. rhe complete account of this expedition, illustrated by over 200 phutographs, will shortly be published in book form in England and America.

MR. ALBERT B. I.LOYD.

From a Photo, by Seville i^ Co., Leicester.

being made of the boards of old chop boxes. There was an inner mud roof as a safeguard against fire, the ordinary grass roof, of course, being very inflammable. A few weeks before I left Toro, a very fine English terrier, belongiiijj to the gentleman formerly occupying my house, was carried off by a venturesome leopard, which approached so near to the house as to catch the dog just under the window. It may he mentioned here that lions and leopards

of the man-eating variety are very numerous in this district of Toro, and constantly the news reached us that some- one had been carried off by these horrible beasts. Even in the middle of the day, in lonely parts, lions will seize their prey ; but more frequently it happens to be in the evenings, just as the sun goes down.

In the next photograph we have a very interesting view cf Bamutenda, the head-quarters of the Toro Protestant Mission, look- ing eastward from King Kasagama's hill. It was on a beautiful morning (Sept. lyth last) that I left here to explore Pygmy and Cannibal Land. The mission houses shown '\i this photo, were buit. early in 1897, and have been occupied since then by two European missionaries. The King very graciously gave to the mission a large garden, part of which is shown in the illustration to the left of the houses. It consists chiefly of bananas, which grow in great profusion in Toro ; and although they are not used, as in Uganda, as the staple food of the natives, yet they are very much in demand for producing the native htex^ which, when fermented with a small millet seed, is a mild and much-appreciated intoxicant.

5^^

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

BAMUIt.-.UA, IN ioKOl-ANU — .MK. LLOVD S STARTINC-J'OINT. I

yrom a\ UNDER the tree, one of his

The church shown next to my house is the largest of the buildings seen in the photograph, and the dispensary is the smallest. As many as 200 patients a day came to me for treatment while on this station, and even with a very limited supply of drugs, and an even more limited knowledge of surgery, I was enabled to cure many poor sufferers. In this work my boys helped me very considerably.

In the next illustration I give a photograph of myself and some of the little Uganda boys, who during the whole of my stay in the Protec- torate have been most faith- ful to me ; two of them even accompanying me all the way to the Congo.

I believe there is that in the composition of an ordinary Uganda boy which, when he is treated with kind- ness and justice, is seldom found in other African races. If his master is true to him, he is true to his master. All through the Soudanese rebellion I was accom[)anied by these boys, and their faith- fulness to me and their sterling pluck on the battlefield have i;cma\

endeared*- them to me in a way that I hardly thought possible. In addition to the boys above mentioned, who have been my faithful followers in Africa, I must not omit to speak of the little poodle dog which has accompanied me in all my many wanderings. "Sally " — shown in thenextpicture — has been a great attraction to the natives wherever we have gone, and in the a c c o m p a n )• i n g photo, we see what form of attraction this oc- casionally took. Passing through the native market-place one day in Mengo, Uganda, "Sally" evidently thought that demonstrations of delight shown by her admirers were quite unnecessary, and turning sharply round upon the crowd that was following us, she made a dash into the thick of them, scatter- ing them in all directions, to her own apparent satisfaction and to the discomfort of many. Hou.se-building to the people of Toro is an

N THE FOREGROUND THE KINGS HII.I-. PAGES. [Photo.

MK. I-LOVD AND HIS UGANDA BOYS.

{Photo.

THROUCiH PVG.MV LAND.

57

/• V out a

THE MARKET-l'l.ACl-

art in which they have not at present made much progress. The native dweUings are of very primitive construction, and generally consist of the beehive -shaped hut of the lower savage ; but in the next photograph we have a snap-shot of a house in course of erection belonging to one of King Kasagama's more enterprising young chiefs. It will here be seen that a rough framework of reeds is first put up, and the mud plastered on afterwards. Brick houses have not yet been taken kindly to by the Watoro, on account, no doubt, of the increased labour necessary ; for laziness is the complaint from which most Africans suffer.

However, we missionaries of Toro have done what we can towards teaching the people the immense advantage of a substantial dwelling, and brick- making has become quite an industry on the Protestant Mission. Kasagama, the King, was very busy when I left Toro, constructing for himself a fine brick house. The bricks, made entirely under his own direction by the natives, are sun-dried, and rather larger than the ordinary English make.

I have already mentioned the prevalence in Toro of the man - eating lion, and in the picture on next page is the dead body of one of these awful brutes. While staying in one

of the suburbs of the capital, I was one morning called up by the chief to come at once and shoot a lion that was doing great damage in the district, and had just then killed a poor woman while culti\ating her garden. She was stooping down {)ulling up some weeds, when, in front of her, she heard the horrid roar of a lion. Looking up in speechless horror, she saw in the grass a few yards away a huge male lion apparently about to spring upon her ; but just at that moment the lioness, which had crept up behind her, sprang out, and with an awful stroke of the fore-paw killed her where she stood, and then carried her off into the thicket.

As soon as I heard this story I started off with a couple of my boys to hunt the lions, but although I spent the whole day searching, not a lion did I see. The mangled remains of the poor woman we discovered, but the lions kept out of our way. However, a few days after this, a party of native hunters returning from their day's hunt after small antelope, were attacked by the same lions. Walking in single file through the long grass on the narrow path, the man at the end of the line was suddenly seized from behind by the lioness, and instantly killed and

Vol. iii.— 8.

HOUSE BUILDING IN KING KASAGAMA's CAl'ITAI..

[Photn.

58

THE WIDE WORLD MAGAZINE.

BKINGINC IN THE MAN-EATING I.IOiNfcbS KILLEU BY THE BRAVF. TORO BOY.

Front a Photo.

carried off. The rest of the party made off with all haste excepting one little boy, the son of the man killed, and he, amazingly plucky little fellow that he is, actually turned back and, armed with nothing but a small spear, followed the blood- stained track through the thicket. After a little while he came upon the lioness in the act of devouring his father. Without a moment's hesitation, this brave little chap rushed at the huge beast, and the lioness, becom- ing aware of his approach, left the prey and sprang upon tHe boy. By a merciful Providence the spear which the boy carried en- tered the breast of the lioness, and by the brute's own weight was forced right into its body, piercing the heart, and the great creature rolled over stone dead. The boy was utterly un- harmed. Rapidly withdrawing his little weapon, he rushed to the mangled remains of his father, and while bending over them, the male lion came roaring through the thicket. The grief- stricken lad sprang up, and with almost super- human courage rushed towards the second lion, waving aloft his blood-stained spear, and shout- ing, " Come on, come on ; I'll kill you also ! " But the male lion was so discomfited by the unexpected approach of the lad that he turned tail and fled, leaving his spouse dead by the side of her mangled prey.

The boy then went home to his village and called his friends to come and bring the dead lioness to the King,^ and this was done. The brave little fellow was suitably rewarded by Kasagama for his wonderful pluck, and he made him his own page. I photographed him with his little spear all blood-bespotted, just after this

noteworthy act of bravery, and he is the subject of the next snap-shot.

Mwanga, the rebel King of Uganda, has never found any favour with the people of Toro. In the earlier days Toro was the great raiding-place of the Waganda, and when the King's herds of cattle and sheep were running low, or he wanted more slaves to do his work, he would organize a raid upon the unfor- tunate ^^"atoro ; so there is naturally no love lost between these two tribes at the present time. Immediately Mwanga was outlawed, however, the Watoro showed their willingness to do all in their power to aid the British Government, and under the direction of the British Sub- Commissioner at Toro they gained several very successful victories over their old enemy. At one time they captured the women of Mwanga's harem and a large amount of loot and ammu- nition, loyally bringing in to the British officer all the spoil. Mwanga's army made several attempts to cross Toro, but each time was repulsed by the W^atoro with loss of life. In September last the war - drum beat again on Kasagama's hill to collect an army to go out against Gabrieli, Mwanga's com- mander-in-chief; and the next photograph depicts the W'atoro army collecting amid great

IHK luKii l.DV WHO KILLED I HE .'iL-

From a\ small spear.

-l-.A I hk U M H HIS

\Fhoi».

THROUGH rVG.MV LAND.

59

THE WATORll AKMV COI.I.KCTING TO CO AGAINST MWANGA,

J-'rom a] rebel king of lganua.

excitement.

THE

[I'/ioto.

In less than a day, the news of the King's war - drum having been beaten had reached the most remote part of the country, and the chiefs from all quarters were making their way to Kabaroli with their followers. Some 600 chiefs armed with guns formed themselves around the person of the King, and then the rank and file armed with spears and shields, bows and arrows, etc., took up their position on the outside of the ring. As with most African tribes, their style of fight- ing consists of sudden rushes upon the enemy, retreating again to the rear, and again attacking from a different point. On one occasion the Watoro very skilfully entrapped their enemies in a little defile, and, without losing a man, killed thirty of the fierce ^^'aganda.

During the Soudanese rebellion I was eight months with Major Macdonald's army, accompanied by my faithful Uganda boys as a body-guard. I was frequently in the forefront of the battle, and in many awkward posi- tions, but never once did my little bodyguard leave me or hesitate to follow me.

In one of the fights, while I was taking the place of an